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I might be interested in the wing mirror ones, those ones you bought weren't cheap.
one of my original ones had a crack in it and made it act up in wet conditions, and i really liked the dynamics ones so bit the bullet
 

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Changed the oil and filter, removed and cleaned the air filter
IMG_20210224_123140.jpg

Would definitely recommend the hydroshield for a bolt on filter, it's been on over 18 months and still looked new when I removed the cover, gave it a quick rinse and a bit of oil after an hour on the radiator.
 

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I've used teak oil on my trims before which works well and lasts too. Just clean the trims beforehand and apply a coating of the oil. After about a minute or so give them a light wipe down with a microfibre cloth and they look like new. Plus the oil is dirt cheap so a tenners worth will last years.
I guess teak oil will last longer than flaxseed or other kitchen use oils since it's used on outdoor decking!!!

That involves me spending money however and I've still got half a bottle of flax to use up :ROFLMAO:

Everbuild EVBTEAK Teak Oil 500 ml | eBay

Although I guess it's cheap enough...
 

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@pjacksat55 looks ace mate doesn't that shield block the airflow mine is bare to the elements lol

Finally got round to doing the alignment after fitting the coilovers some time back. Shockingly the rear was already spot on, the mechanic said it's the most straight rear end his seen lol.

Just the front needed adjustment! Got the toe levelled all round and one camber adjustment on the front to match the other side. Drives brilliantly now :)

Before and after

£66 well spent.
 

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Maybe it's just me but the car seems to run smoother with 0w-20 oil in it...

I have changed the oil twice in the 7 or so months I've had it however. First time 6 months ago, it had 5-30 in it with a random pattern filter, then I went Magnatec 0w-30 and now Mannol 0w-20. Both my changes are with OEM filters as they seem to be pretty much the best around.

Could just be the fact I'm servicing the car and running it on a regular basis as it only did 2k miles in the year prior to me buying it.
 

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Cox's and other Honda sources say 0w-20 but I've heard of plenty recommending 0w-30. Indeed Cox's sell 0w-30 for the mk8... Forum posts suggest anything from 0w-20 to 5w-30.

Whereas Cox's recommend either 0w-20 or 5w-40 for the FN which is a fairly big difference! I have read some suggestions that 0w-20 is an economy oil rather than a high performance one but I drive for mpg in my 1.8!
 

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@pjacksat55 looks ace mate doesn't that shield block the airflow mine is bare to the elements lol

Finally got round to doing the alignment after fitting the coilovers some time back. Shockingly the rear was already spot on, the mechanic said it's the most straight rear end his seen lol.

Just the front needed adjustment! Got the toe levelled all round and one camber adjustment on the front to match the other side. Drives brilliantly now :)

Before and after

£66 well spent.
Doesn't seem to restrict the air, but it does stop the filter from getting mucky. They should supply it in a roll to put next to the panel filter, probably never have to get a new one.
IMG_20210224_165142.jpg

This is some of the fuel changes required on the base Group N map when I first fitted the intake, cam at 20 degrees in vtec. Fair bit of extra power lower down.
 

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Negativv I'm gonna look a bit more into that oil for sure.

Pjack that's some good results right there.

Ive just had my insurance & road tax fall this month so an expensive month to say the least

I'll probs look at that jacket along with some dress up mods & cosmetic mods, just switched to Brentacre and they don't increase premiums for such items so next month il be adding a fair few new bits
 

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Negativv I'm gonna look a bit more into that oil for sure.

Pjack that's some good results right there.

Ive just had my insurance & road tax fall this month so an expensive month to say the least

I'll probs look at that jacket along with some dress up mods & cosmetic mods, just switched to Brentacre and they don't increase premiums for such items so next month il be adding a fair few new bits
The results only show the main problem with the Group N map, all it really does is change the vtec points to 3800 and 5500, it's also looking for less fuel higher up in the revs than the base map on the lambda tables but uses the same fuel tables as the base map. So it will require more fuel adding for the vtec coming in lower and less fuel further up. But once you get the fuel tables sorted, it works well.
 

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Negativv I'm gonna look a bit more into that oil for sure.

Pjack that's some good results right there.

Ive just had my insurance & road tax fall this month so an expensive month to say the least
Mannol oil is cheap as hell on eBay. £20 for a 4l jug and only £55 for a 20l barrel. I know a few that have used it and even if it isn't quite there with the big brand oils, I change every 6 months so it doesn't need to last 10k miles or over a year like some "recommended" factory service intervals! I bought 4l for my 1.8 but will probably get the big barrel next time round.

I paid tax for two cars in Jan yes, fairly painful!! Insurance is Summer time so it's spread out, no idea how it ended up that way as usually both will come together!!
 

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Nice one cheers mate deffo something il look into

Yeah I gotta stagger these bills maybe il get 6 months tax then a year tax after that so they don't fall together lol

I'm curious as to why you change your oil every 6 months you don't do mega miles do you ?

With alot of these oils they'll easily hit 10k. On my fab vrs yes I did 5k oil swaps as it was turbo so a necessary evil

God I do miss a healthy dose of torque lol
 

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I might tone it down after 1 more oil change actually, when I first got the car it felt like the typical neglected by the past owner type of used car so a few short changes have done it some good I think. My mileage might rise later in the year but this time round I've only done about 4k in the last 6 months.

Will see how it goes, probably can't hurt to change the oil a bit more often in something that's done over 110k and is approaching 14 years old!

Ah the little Skoda diesel... I did look at one awhile back but never did take the plunge. I did own a mk1 Octavia vRS however.
316937


Annoyingly the new owner clearly neglected it as it's last MoT was a year after I sold it...

Torque is king!! My fun car is a petrol V6, a healthy 200 ft odd across pretty much the entire rev range.
 

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Do you guys know when the water pump should be changed on the mk8, I'm due to have the rad upgraded to a Tegiwa alloy rad & dropping in some fresh coolant.

I'm wondering if it's worth swapping out whilst I do the above. Sitting at 117k
I haven't seen much in the search function. Is it a complicated job ?
 

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I've no idea what drives the water pump on the mk8 but no it's not something I hear that's changed often. Unlike my other car that demands the water pump is changed the same time as the timing belt. There doesn't seem to be much evidence of water pumps failing in Civics either...
 

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Do you guys know when the water pump should be changed on the mk8, I'm due to have the rad upgraded to a Tegiwa alloy rad & dropping in some fresh coolant.

I'm wondering if it's worth swapping out whilst I do the above. Sitting at 117k
I haven't seen much in the search function. Is it a complicated job ?
Water pump sits between the alternator and crank pulley and is driven by the auxiliary belt, it should be OK if it's used the correct coolant over the years. Crank pulley is probably getting ready though 😉
 

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Cheers lads il probably do the following in one go, I'm not one for doing one bit then another bit prefer to do things in one go...

Crank + idler pulley
Water pump
Alloy rad
Silicone hoses
Coolant which I think is motul pink

With the above would it be worth changing the water pump given my milage?

Further from this want a fuel pump + silicone vaccum hoses added
 
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