2006+ Honda Civic Forum banner

The "What did you do to your car today?" thread

845K views 9K replies 547 participants last post by  Hemingway1975 
I'd second rebuilding them yourself - I did all calipers on my Jeep Grand Cherokee (now dead due to side impact from a numpty coming out of a side street) not difficult to do, just take your time & have the satisfaction they are done right - the rebuilt brakes were better than ever (y)

Inspect the bores before deciding if they need a quick hone or not, if you do hone them don't get carried away! - honing tool for a drill is cheap and a handful of passes should be plenty. I presume the pistons on Hondas are steel? the ones on the Jeep were all phenolic pistons which was one of the worst design choices I have ever seen - edam cheese would probably have been as good :eek:
 


Changed my cabin filter after pulling out for a nosy on how it was doing. Need to look up when this was supposed to have been swapped on a service. She’s had three services so I’m gonna guess every two years.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You think that is bad - here is mine (self servicing now that service plan is over) - I serviced it last week -

314811


Changed by a Honda dealer 2 years ago according to their service sheet - yeah right, robbing B*stards :mad:

PS the pic does not actually do it justice - looks dirtier in real life and it is the same colour all the way to the bottom of the folds :eek:

And yes - every 2 years according to schedule
 
That looks good Das - might get one of those for my Series 1 landy(s) they are a nightmare to bleed the brakes.

I assume pop a fitting onto the bleed nipple & pump away? fluid remains contained in the pot ok? what kind of pressure did it get to?

How did you find doing the clutch fluid (mine is a 9th and I *think yours an 8th but I imagine they are virtually the same?) Changing the clutch fluid is on my to do list - have been umming and ahhing if I should let honda (happiness fixed price - not the over inflated price Honda blackburn quoted me lol) do the job or do it myself..

Edit - Oh and I presume it has a one way valve in there somewhere?
 
Weirdly my 9th gen is very much quieter with 5w30 - and it IS a grade recommended by Honda - not the 1st recommendation but definitely approved where 0w20 is not available. since I have a 20l tub of 5w30 from a prev vehicle I'll def be using that till it is gone - and likely after that given the engine is quieter and seems smoother with it (y)
 
The lights are waterproof 12v COB Angel Eye Halo rings. I got them off ebay. I fitted a connector to plug them into the foglight cable connector so there is no messing with the cars wires. They work with the foglight switch as I found them too bright to use as a drl, but I have plans to fit some drls.
A word of caution - if you have your fogs switched on (when it isn't foggy) to activate the rings you will be at risk of a fine - I know many do have fogs on all the time (some seem to think it looks cooler) but it is technically an offence in the UK. I know this as I got pulled several years ago - having driven home up North from London in my Accord - it WAS foggy all the way up the motorway but the fog disappeared in the last 3 miles of my journey & I got stopped & fined by a male copper (with a new female officer in training) - I did explain my journey but he wasn't having any of it (a mile down the read it WAS foggy but as I climbed into my valley it vanished) - I imagine he wanted to swing his 🤬to impress his attractive female noob and just wanted a "collar" - I was distinctly less than impressed 😡- technically I WAS committing an offence but really.......
 
Or you can buy the kit and sew it on yourself - for a heck of a lot less than £180!!

I am planning to do that on my Land Rover wheel - it is already leather but to my hand feels like it could do to be a smidge thicker - and the perforated leather kits are very, very well made I'm told on the FL2 forums.. and easy to fit with a little patience (y)
 
Sorry but there is no need whatsoever to bleed the brakes when changing pads or discs - brakes only ever need bleeding if for some reason the hydraulic part of the system has been unsealed (which does not happen changing pads or discs) or when fluid is changed.

Change your fluid as per schedule & don't touch those bleed nipples when you change pads & discs.

Why needlessly complicate a straightforward brake job (parts change) by doing something completely un-necessary and more complicated than the simple job of swapping parts out - very poor advice indeed IMO to suggest bleeding brakes as a matter of course.

One thing you absolutely should do however is a visual inspection of all the seals and boots on the caliper and of course lubricate those sliders (y)
 
True it depends when the fluids were last done but if one doesn't know then surely it's better to do it and then it's sorted then no?

Suppose a quick inspection of the brake fluid will tell whether it's dirty or not...
No - If the fluid needs changing then change it for sure - your original point was that you should bleed the calipers when you change pads, this is utterly pointless and has absolutely zero benefit - bleeding the brakes is completely different to changing the fluid (which of course will involve bleeding).

A brake pad replacement is a simple process and it is really unhelpful IMHO to overcomplicate that by adding pointless & more complex processes to it - changing pads is an easy place to start for someone wanting to do some maintenance themselves - bleeding brakes is not.

I do agree that fluid should be changed on schedule, if you are unsure when/if the fluid was changed then there is a good argument for checking the colour of it - in this case I WOULD bleed a little from a caliper (the colour of fluid in the reservoir is not likely to be representative of the colour and condition at the caliper end)
 
If the fluid needs changing then I 100% agree that it should be changed (preferably as per schedule) - but Bleeding the brakes as routine when you change pads (which is what your original post suggested) does NOT in any way constitute a brake fluid change and is pointless and a waste of time & effort.

If it NEEDS changing change it - but if you need new pads then please don't waste time & effort compromising the hydraulic system - there is zero benefit

Perhaps you meant a full fluid change when you said a bleed - in which case a terminology misunderstanding (but I still would not recommend anyone to as a matter of course with a pad change ;) )
 
(y) Exactly the same sort as I got - but it took them 3 attempts do send me the right one, first was one for a Hyundai, 2nd was for a 8th gen without sub & 3rd time lucky was the correct 9th gen WITH sub 🤣🤣

Your missing ear/wing is because that is one for a vehicle with sub, and tbh that fit around the LHS does not look as good as my eventual correct one (tho it does take them a while to "bed in" from being rolled up in a box - was that how yours arrived?) - I'd check it is the right one for your gen Civ & non sub - check the sticker on it, my 2nd said 2006 on & correct one said 2012 on.

Pic of their wrong "2nd attempt", one for a 8th gen - still in its box here lol


Automotive lighting Telephony Office equipment Communication Device Wood



Pic of my correct one 9th gen with Sub in situ

316504


you can see just enough of a step in to clear the tie down - your step in looks bigger & if it is the same ebay seller you may have the wrong one - the fit on mine is very good indeed all the way round with just the step in there - the rest fits snugly. That said, yours does look very similar to my 2nd (8th gen one) apart from the RHS Sub cut out so who knows!

I was certainly very pleased (eventually lol) with mine for under 20 quid (y)
 
I'll need to sell on the Hyundai & 8th gen Civ one sometime lol - must have cost the seller a fortune in postage alone & when I asked he said keep the 2 wrong un's & do what ya want with them - to be fair he was great about it all & I wasn't in a rush, I kinda enjoyed the saga waiting to see how many goes they needed to get it right :unsure: he claimed it was his muppets in warehouse incompetence 🤣 🤣 (he was on Mat leave as I recall)
 
Oh yes - I imagine a big profit margin also! - probably made in China for pennies 🤣 & with containers now costing £10k (used to be £1600) due to Covid, I hope we get back to normal at some point before everything gets a whole load more expensive!
 
Copper slip is not a lubricant - it is an anti seize compound (also useful for the piston to pad interface to stop squeal) apart from that you need a lube that does not rot your rubber parts - such as red rubber grease or some of the new-fangled silicone stuff as Neg suggests (y)
 
Top