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Yours looks great! Thanks for the tips, I had to use a slightly different setup, because of the rrc+tb, the coolant hose is bothering me a bit, I'm going to wrap some termal wrap around it for now, it will creat about 1cm layer between the two for now.
Or maybe I can find a different coolant hose?
The air intakes to replace the foglights help a lot when the intake is in that position
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The halo was something I fitted, but it's easy to get the air straight up to the filter from there
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I used a BMC filter and an Injen Hydroshield to keep the filter clean.
I'm working on a different set up at the moment using an aluminium connector (makes more noise)
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Not finished yet, as I keep getting distracted by other things
 

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Finally replaced pads and discs all round with new slider pins, went with TRW nothing performance as I don't drive the car that hard. It's a shopping cart/commuter/family hatch...

Managed it in a single day, worked solid from about 11am to 4pm and had to finish the last bit by torchlight! Didn't even have time to grab pics of the original pads and discs but they were fairly worn.

The pads on the car were PPF rears and Brake Tech (I think?!) fronts, budget choice I think. No idea what the discs were as they heavy with rust.

Whilst I had a set of brake hoses, I didn't think it worthwhile and might do it next time round... Likewise the arches could use a clean and paint but that's a Summer job.

Rears were a bit annoying to wind back, ended up twisting up the rubber seal but don't think there were much I could do about that. Fronts were easy but is the case in most cars.

Took it for a cautious test drive and it all seemed to work, no binding, no dipping to one side although the frozen weather and new brakes meant the ABS activated a few times despite me not braking that hard.
 

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Well the front discs looked "ok" but the rears were a bit more perished.

Was Drive Tec pads on the front now I checked again...

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Probably could have soldiered on for longer, haven't really noticed much difference in braking performance so far if any.

Was more for peace of mind as it's something I've installed and I've chosen the parts.

Damn front disc didn't actually fit on straight away, needed a hearty kick to get it past the centre of the hub...
 

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Well it had to be done, won’t let it get like that again. Tell you what, bilt hammer double speed wax, don’t leave that sucker on too long. Jesus couple coats off that and no gym is required.
Looking good
View attachment 323349
Nice ...

Ffs niggling voice in back of head dammit now.
 

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2009 FN2 Type R
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523 Posts
The secret to Double wax, little of it and DO NOT ever put it on warm panels unless you have machine polisher :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
 

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Alabaster civic 08 Type R
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The secret to Double wax, little of it and DO NOT ever put it on warm panels unless you have machine polisher :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
Tell me about it, Meguires ultimate I could start at one side of the car, apply it all around, then time to wax off. Double wax, had to use both hands, Jesus.
 

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Tell me about it, Meguires ultimate I could start at one side of the car, apply it all around, then time to wax off. Double wax, had to use both hands, Jesus.
AG red can be same if panels are warm to touch, one of the reasons I switched to poorboys polishes n waxes they same easy buff off on hot or cold panels.

Don't know how it would be on metallics.
 

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View attachment 323356
Fitted new Wiper Blades, Bosch AeroTwin, superb fit and screen clearing, ready for the MOT
Swear by them on every car I've had. Bosch anything does what it says it does. :) Replaced Betty with Honda own though when I bricked one.

I use rainx premixed windscreen juice but struggling to find it again the concentrate is fine but find the pinkness can stain roof a touch, the blue is premixed n doesn't obvs I'm putting too much in lol
 

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What's the ideal temperature to polish a car anyway?

I'm going to be doing it at some point this Spring to both my cars...
 

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2009 FN2 Type R
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523 Posts
What's the ideal temperature to polish a car anyway?

I'm going to be doing it at some point this Spring to both my cars...
Just when the panels are cool to the touch generally, but for some you can get away with them being warm, it just makes it harder to remove. Trial and error with each product .As said earlier, Bilt Hamber Double Speed wax is one that is harder to remove if you use too much or the panels are warm, it is an excellent product though.
 

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2009 FN2 Type R
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523 Posts
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Water Grey Wood Art Tints and shades

Had Acuity shifter base bushings fitted and the shifter cable bushes, gear change is a lot smoother and precise. Powerflex full bush set, topped off with oil and filter change. I seem to need lesson's in taking photo's too :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
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Almost forgot to mention, Powerflex EXH011 universal exhaust mount, as my single exit with rubber mount was banging on the metal FN2 exhaust triangles, very annoying, OEM wheel nut in black too.
After a 30 mile drive, the car is rock solid steering wise, the same as my previous FN2 was with Polybush (the brand) bushings, gear changes are crisp and the exhaust is not banging on the triangle.
For those of you who who look at downsides for daily etc (I do not mind noise or harsh ride, as long as it is for a benefit), polyurethane bushes do make the ride more direct and hard, and the exhaust mount does make the sound transfer to the body more (only using the rear hanger one), so it does sound a little louder, BUT it is not banging on the triangle. Again it is not something that bothers me, but be warned if you like your comfort.
 
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