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I understand there is a gap in the shield behind brakes that allows for their removal but i might be wrong.
Cheers mate I've looked about and the image below I could trim the area highlighted in red

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In this image I can see where the old ones can be knocked out

However was looking at putting in the hardrace extended bolts and I'm thinking they may not slot through I don't mind butchering the dust shield

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Unfortunately getting rub !

Options are;

Extended wheel nuts, if I can't do it in situ means new wheel bearings mine are only 8months old

Arch rolling - never seen it done on FN and unsure it can be done

Camber on all corners I think it might already be -1 degree, could go for -2 although need to research what difference it would make

Needless to say will stay off road till sorted

Rears ;

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Fronts;

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Washed the FN2 and, just for a change, clay barred the paintwork. First time I've used a clay bar on the paintwork. I used a Halfords clay bar with Megs Quick Detailer as lube, and its brought up the NHB paint a treat. Alloys are still dirty though. That's a job for tomorrow.
 

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Unfortunately getting rub !

Options are;

Extended wheel nuts, if I can't do it in situ means new wheel bearings mine are only 8months old

Arch rolling - never seen it done on FN and unsure it can be done

Camber on all corners I think it might already be -1 degree, could go for -2 although need to research what difference it would make

Needless to say will stay off road till sorted

Rears ;

View attachment 326789

Fronts;

View attachment 326790
Or you could just take off the spacers 😁
 

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Can't bro as the big brake kit won't clear
I can clear with 6mm which is the smallest I can go
Wheel studs on the rear will come out in situ, (brake calipers and discs off)
Wheel studs on the front can be removed in one place but requires a groove to be ground on the suspension so the stud comes out/in, or a flat grinding on the wheel stud (don't recommend) it's been covered on here (pictures won't be available now).
Other than that it's the hub off.
Honda do supply 2 different wheel studs for the car, and one is longer.
 

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Alabaster civic 08 Type R
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I thought the studs where fitted on splines at the bottom of the shank and you can either cut them down and knock them out or knock them out in full. Then the new ones can either be knocked in from behind or drawn in with the clearance hole available.
 

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Wheel studs on the rear will come out in situ, (brake calipers and discs off)
Wheel studs on the front can be removed in one place but requires a groove to be ground on the suspension so the stud comes out/in, or a flat grinding on the wheel stud (don't recommend) it's been covered on here (pictures won't be available now).
Other than that it's the hub off.
Honda do supply 2 different wheel studs for the car, and one is longer.
Found this and it might help
 

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Wheel studs on the rear will come out in situ, (brake calipers and discs off)
Wheel studs on the front can be removed in one place but requires a groove to be ground on the suspension so the stud comes out/in, or a flat grinding on the wheel stud (don't recommend) it's been covered on here (pictures won't be available now).
Other than that it's the hub off.
Honda do supply 2 different wheel studs for the car, and one is longer.
Cheers bro I've ordered the hardrace ones now should be here tomorrow so will update over the weekend

@Hemingway1975 yh they can be tapped out but very limited space behind as need to slot these longer ones in

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Finally got around to cleaning it! #Incoming fanboy alert# All Bilt Hamber products, snow foamed, auto wash, cleanser polish, auto balm then double speed wax! just got the roof and back end to do, rain stopped play. Front end is peppered in stone chips, was only resprayed 18 months ago L(
 
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