[Yandex]

Hi,

I’ve tried going through old threads but I can’t seem to find an issue exactly like mine.

The issue developed a few months ago, I heard the sound at 30 odd mph it was like a quick ratcheting noise.

Since then I’ve experimented, it can be quite loud on full left lock on the wheel leading me to believe it’s CV joint but then the weird thing is if I’m doing 10mph on a quiet road I can hear it quite loud. The faster I go the quicker the sound is, but when I’m switching gears or in neutral the noise is gone?

Does that mean it’s to do with the transmission bearings or something similar? Or could it still be a CV issue. Those are the only two I’m considering.

Should be noted, that even if I’m in gear, the moment I depress the clutch the noise is gone, that makes me think it’s literally the bearing connecting the transmission and the clutch?

Has anyone else had an issue like this? Is the fix going to involve me getting the transmission out?

Do let me know.

Thanks all.

 

[Yandex]

EDIT: Nevermind… I’ve just went out to test it again.

So at low speeds (under 10) it’s kinda ticking regardless of gear, noisier during full left lock. At faster speeds it’s ONLY making a noise when the accelerator is pressed, the moment I lift my foot of it it stops, interesting to note the delay in the drive-by-wire is also felt, for half a second after I let go it keeps ticking but then it stops. Again, that’s in gear. But if I take it out of gear at the same speed, 20-30mph and THEN press the accelerator there is no ticking??? Go figure.

 

[Das]

Sounds like a CV joint, especially where its louder on full lock, that classic failing CV to me.

 

[Yandex]

So, after hours of investigation, it seems there's nothing wrong with CV joints or wheel bearings.

It seems it's to do with either power steering or more likely, a gearbox/clutch issue.

I found this thread, a video linked in it also seems to sound similar to my noise. Here are two recordings with the wheels off, with them it's pretty much gone. However, a noise is coming from the gearbox area of the car and I can't put my finger on what it is. No other signs of a failing clutch. I will take it to a specialised Honda garage for an assessment but I'd like to see if anyone here has had similar issues.

Thread with clutch issue!

I believe one of the people in that thread had his gearbox and clutch replaced but I believe it will be only one issue, like the clutch more likely than the whole gearbox.

Just when I had a good year and a half with no issues, there doesn't seem to be any detrimental effects on the actual driving of the car. I have a spare diesel Civic anyway if the worst happens but I love my car so I'd like to fix it and keep it.

More advice is welcome before I visit the shop.

 

[Relic]

1. Difficult to get directional sound from a youtube vid, but 1st stop is to take the brake disks off incase the dush shield is rubbing and/or there is a stone trapped between shield and disk (assumes sound is traveling from the dust shield).
2. Pop off the auxhiliary belt and make sure there is no play in any pulleys (assumes sound is traveling from front of engine).
3. Clutch broken and/or debris in the bell housing.
4. If it is gearbox areas, then sounds like the bearing are shot and/or no oil....and gearbox shot anyway.
This assumes there is nothing rubbing on the drive shaft even if the CV joints/bearings are ok.

Do you get any noises spinning the wheels with engine off in neutral ?

 

[Yandex]

Well, after a trip to a local Honda specialist the diagnosis is as follows:

- input shaft casing bearing (the one with oil seal, not the one with plastic back)

Googling reveals problem seems semi-common especially in the US, this specific garage says he has done a lot of them.

Price to fix is about £350-400, the part itself is £20-30 and the rest is labour. The gearbox has to come out and be fully opened.

I will be going ahead with a repair and also, do the clutch at the same time. I'll let you all know how it goes in a few weeks. In terms of safety, I've been driving like that for 6 months at least, and the mechanic says it's not really high risk which is where some other members disagree, one claims the catastrophic failure of their bearing led to a literal hole in the transmission case...

Who knows?

Thanks all for trying!

 

[Yandex]

The question now is, seeing that I will supply the parts myself:

- is it worth buying a set and changing all 6/7 bearings plus the seal or doing as the mechanic advised, just replace the faulty bearing? The car is on 85k miles, so I'm thinking if we're opening everything might as well go for it.

- a lot of the online kits seem to have the same bearings but different descriptions i.e. FK2, MK7, FN2 etc. can someone please confirm the part numbers required for the "input shaft casing bearing (the one with oil seal, not the one with plastic back)" and the other ones?

- needless to say, I will do the clutch as well at the same time - LuK, Exedy, transmerch, SACHS, JapanParts, Valeo, Blue Print, NK, Herth+Buss, Kavo - which one to go for? Cost is not a consideration, I want the best-performing most long-lasting clutch.

Thanks everyone.

 

[Yandex]

I suppose this could be used as guide once my car has been repaired. @Das

Here is a picture showing all the required parts that my mechanic thinks are needed. If anyone thinks anything else is needed and has had that same issue before let me know. My mechanic says he has done loads of them, and thinks you only need that one bearing as you can find sets inline for about £150 of all 6/7 depending on your model.

The bearing is made from NTN as far as I can tell and there hasn’t really been a recall or anything like that. I’d like to think it has been re-engineered and my car is only on 80k miles and this shouldn’t be happening but it is what it it.

And I’m getting charged about £400 odd for labour, I think that’s fair considering the amount of work done. Let me know what you think about that too.