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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
I'm very new to the forum and would like to pump my civic a bit. I have it for a month or so. As the title states i would like to ask the differences between the clutches and which one would be better for me? I'm looking on TDI North CC clutches. I want to have as close as possible to OEM pedal, it can be heavier i dont mind but the bite and the take off should be close. Can anyone with these clutches comment on the daily drive please?

Thanks in advance!
 

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CC single here, clutch is initially heavy but appears to gradually getting lighter. I've covered over 1.5k miles on it now.

Bite point is low even after adjusting.

Take off is like OEM, you don't need anymore rev's.

Overall the clutch feels nicer IMO, more positive.

Google search Civinfo for more info, the subject has been discussed many times ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
CC single here, clutch is initially heavy but appears to gradually getting lighter. I've covered over 1.5k miles on it now.

Bite point is low even after adjusting.

Take off is like OEM, you don't need anymore rev's.

Overall the clutch feels nicer IMO, more positive.

Google search Civinfo for more info, the subject has been discussed many times ;)
I already did some researching and read a lot of stuff and wanted to summarize it here so it could help me decide because of the difference in price.
 

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Okay that's good to hear.

Do you need the higher capacity twin? What are your intentions with the vehicle, daily driver or racer?

Tell us why you are considering these...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It will be daily driver but sometimes the thought of hybrid turbo comes to my mind. I have read Trevor's thread but have no idea what would be the figures for a civic so i dont know if it will be worth the upgrade. If the daily drive is the same with both i would go with the single over the twin.
 

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if youre not putting a hybrid turbo, FMIC and egr delete on the car the single plate is a beast of a clutch and will more than manage daily driver requirements
the pressure plate and housing is completely different to the stock one (CG's early clutches were based on the 325 pressure plate until 666)
its a full face clutch material and the clutch is sprung thus giving a near OEM familiar feel.

Id personally recommend it but no one other than trevor has used either of these clutches for more than a few thousand miles as they are relatively new.
Trevor was the first to have the twin plate and runs an insane setup
 

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Mine started a month or so ago in just 5th/6th at 2000 revs

A month later it slips at any point between 2-3k revs in gears 4-6 when I accelerate quickly
 

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Surely it only slips when you accelerate hard from low rpm, in too high a gear ;)

Time is not a factor in slip, mileage is.

The adjuster will ratchet up periodically, until that is at it's maximum. When this occurs is a lottery tho as every car is treated differently.

I ran mine for close to 10k miles on both stage 1/2 map's and was still able to drive around the slip. Use more revs and it'll be okay for many miles.

Oh since seeing the state of my DMF and I'm a firm believer in driving properly and not having the DMF get over worked. For instance, change down when coming into a speed limit and don't leave the car in too high a gear. Sure it'll cope but it's not good for the DMF, box, engine, EGR, etc.
 

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Mine started going in fifth between 2-3k revs. Just wondered how long I had before it became undriveable. A month doesn't sound long.

How long does the adjuster last?
 

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2k revs is plenty in my book due to the massive amount of torque the engine has.

I was on the motorway yesterday and was doing 70ish at just over 2k revs. Tried to accelerate quickly and it slipped, then tried to accelerate again - slipped again. Pedal was only slightly depressed - not like I was putting my foot down.
 

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Mine started going in fifth between 2-3k revs. Just wondered how long I had before it became undriveable. A month doesn't sound long.

How long does the adjuster last?
The adjuster keep ratcheting up, so should stop slip periodically. It just needs to bite itself up a bit more.

I'd be surprised if it slipped once and that was it, game over you now have a 100% slipping clutch.

There are threads on how you might be able to get it to reset, though I never bothered.
 

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2k revs is plenty in my book due to the massive amount of torque the engine has.

I was on the motorway yesterday and was doing 70ish at just over 2k revs. Tried to accelerate quickly and it slipped, then tried to accelerate again - slipped again. Pedal was only slightly depressed - not like I was putting my foot down.
You didn't mention changing gear, so try changing down a gear and drive around the issue.

If that fails, they you need to get booked in for a replacement.
 

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2k revs is plenty in my book due to the massive amount of torque the engine has.

I was on the motorway yesterday and was doing 70ish at just over 2k revs. Tried to accelerate quickly and it slipped, then tried to accelerate again - slipped again. Pedal was only slightly depressed - not like I was putting my foot down.
2-2.5k revs is where it starts to deliver most of the torque.
the amount it provides is higher in 4,5 and 6th gear to accommodate for the cars speed.
so no if you are having issues with slipping 2k revs is too low and probably best chilling in 5th for longer
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Mine slips in 3-6 around 2.3 to 2.6k revs. I think ill be taking the twin, was just interested in some pedal feel of the single one, i wont be using hybrid, fmic and everything else yes but no turbo upgrade for now. If it fails ill go for hybrid.
 

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Mine slips in 3-6 around 2.3 to 2.6k revs. I think ill be taking the twin, was just interested in some pedal feel of the single one, i wont be using hybrid, fmic and everything else yes but no turbo upgrade for now. If it fails ill go for hybrid.
from what i see the housing and pressure plate is the same for single and twin so the pedal feel is the same.
depends on what you want really, for me in pretty confident that the single plate will surpass my requirements even if i go over 220 at somepoint (currently near 200)
but you cant argue that the twin plate is a beast. trevor probably has the most torque out of anyone in the forum and hes killed every clutch apart from the twin plate (although hes not had a 666 or cc singleplate)
 

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You didn't mention changing gear, so try changing down a gear and drive around the issue.

If that fails, they you need to get booked in for a replacement.
Ive tried the same thing in fifth gear - still slips (although not as much or as frequently)

I know the clutch will be replaced soon so the slipping doesnt bother me right now. Trying to decide between CG (and using the garage next door to them to fit it) or TDI North for the supply and fit.

Ideally I would like to go to CG motorsports as they design and manufacture the kit themselves - that way all my money goes back into the UK economy
 

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Hello,
I'm very new to the forum and would like to pump my civic a bit. I have it for a month or so. As the title states i would like to ask the differences between the clutches and which one would be better for me? I'm looking on TDI North CC clutches. I want to have as close as possible to OEM pedal, it can be heavier i dont mind but the bite and the take off should be close. Can anyone with these clutches comment on the daily drive please?

Thanks in advance!
Hello, Both the 666 & Twin Plate units use sprung plates (solid is an option on the 666). The diaphragm springing is heavier than OEM. Take up is smooth, daily drive with no more clutch problems.
Haven't tried the 666 one as it came out after the Twin Plate.
Would have opted for the TP anyway as I have managed to break everything else! But no one is running my outputs through 4WD.

Think CG's 666 with a lifetime warranty, fitted next door will be more than enough on your Civic. If you were going Hybrid with a LSD would go for a twin plate.
 
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