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Discussion Starter #101 (Edited)
got some more stuff sorted last weekend on car. odds and sods weekend really.
replaced rear dashcam wiring as rear camera was having power issues.

cooked the HC800 pads on trackday a fortnight ago. £170 burnt through in 3 weeks :( currently back on the OEM brembo's and have PBS pads as replacement waiting to be fitted. Also replaced 6 of the 8 brembo dust seals as they were cooked. while i had the brakes apart i did look at ducting but seems the fact everything has been oversided for the typeR vs base model, it's giving no real clearance on full lock scenarios, so that failed.

Will be stripping brakes AGAIN to remove the disc dust shield (probably my only option to improve airflow and cooling around the brakes) and fit the PBS pads in the next month ready for the next event at Donnington.
Might also revise the oil cooler pipework. buy some 90deg connections to make a nicer path around the side of the radiator, and replace the oil temp adaptor housing for a far less obtrusive adaptor type. for the sake of £10 adaptor, i should have put one on the original order, but felt sure the temp sensor probe was too long. Finger tight showed maybe 2-3mm clearance before bottoming out.



also got the right acuity bushes for the FK2R(m-8 fasteners, rather than m6's on FK8). old ones were rubber with a metal collar, these are full metal. Noticeable different in feel. less mushy feel to the shift and a lot more mechanical.



rear ones were easy.




front ones, not so much. have to locate these from under the trim, in each footwell working by feel only. not difficult just very awkward. bits can easily go walkabouts down there and a bugger to find so make sure you have hold of stuff. took me 5-10mins to find one of the old metal collars




PS4S's worked well on trackday - far better than the RT2's but still felt a bit soft and outter edge took more than a beating than i'd of liked. Trackday also finished off the dunlop RT2's on the rear which got chewed up and cords showing (they were 3.5mm anyway so imminent replacement) so opted for the michelin cup2's, which were swapped to the front. good tyres but do need some heat in them to work well. easily spin in these <4c mornings, but once warmed up a bit seem to be able to cope with 1st gear full power without slip.

Also popped out to an engineering place to get a rough price on reworking the balljoints for more camber. while i originally ordered the -3deg ones from dream, they sent the -1.5deg ones but only discovered that fact once fitted to the car and was being setup. £50 for an hours work so will very likely get that done in the next month or 2. Current balljoints give -1.5deg max (factory is -1.0deg) and based on old tyre wear, can go more without wear issue. hope to get them worked out to neg2.0-2.25 which should further aid outter edge wear. They just want a measurement from me to work with, so i need to decide how far to elongate the holes without making them unsafe.
 

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Discussion Starter #102
more mods, but this time to fix the oil cooler.
some reason i've been having a knocking about a month after fitting the oil cooler (no idea why it took so long to notice based on the cause), where the oil plate AN fittings were knocking against the subframe.
tried a 6mm spacer on the top timing-chain side engine mount and that made a noticable improvement but still knocking. started to look at reducing movement with engine torque but couldnt find anything specific for the FK2. since some USDM Si model bits fit the FK2 (Acuity shift bushes), i took a gamble on the very similar looking 12-16 Si mount from HASport. I was 90% sure it'll fit, HASport said it'll fit, so order placed and 3 weeks later it turns up.


didnt fit straight out the box, as it seems the USDM Si uses m10 and narrower bolt center points for the engine side mount.
drilled it out a size to cope with the m12's on our typeR and had to elongate the holes a bit to handle the slightly wider spacing (about 1/4 hole difference). Taper drill for the hole, and dremel for the elongation.

fitment was straight forward if a little faffy. entire bottom tray needs to come off to use power tools, so spanner and ratchet job really. 17mm all round, undo the 3 bolts, rotate mount towards exhaust and out it comes.


saw it mentioned on civicx that you could use window weld to seal up the holes in the OE mount rubber. definately work but not sure the result. gotta be better than stock. Honda already fitted a support peice in one of the gaps - typeR only?



did it fix my knocking? yep, so that's good.
as you'd expect, noticeably more vibration but i really like the new feel. I went for the 70A version (so 2nd firmest of 4 levels)
 

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Discussion Starter #103
ok, so it didnt fix my knocking but did noticably improve it.
currently eyeball measuring the 2018 Accord mounts from HASport. I dont need 'em but just want 'em. While the Si mount i bought in last post does fit, it needs mods. The 2018 USDM 1.5t/2.0t Accord ('CV' model) looks like it uses the same top and bottom mount and bolt size as the FK2... so hopefully no modifying parts.

Also been in contact with Powerflex specifically for the top engine stabiliser bar. They're working on it and expecting to release in about 3 months.

found the knocking too. tie bar/stopper link nut loose. Depending how you tugged on it it'd feel fine so obviously why i didnt find it when i looked at suspension about a month ago. It also looked a bit greasy so a closer look shows the rubber has a slight split. almost positive the damage is related to the clutch/gearbox repair i had in November but hard to prove since i've done so much on the car recently. £140 for new bar and nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #104
bit of a polish up on the car today. nothing new, just reworking some old mods.


for the non-regular readers, first oil install:



turned out the way the pipes came from the side of the radiator and into the oilstat, crashbar would no longer fit.
so a bit of thinking looking at the install pictures and the idea hits me... a pair of 90degree AN10 connections.

car came apart yesterday for what i thought was a 2-3 hour job. 8hours later and done! i've no idea where the time went but weather was nice.




much cleaner install. due to re-cutting one of the oil lines for the new 90deg connections, i cut about 1/2" too short so had to replace that length. that didnt allow me to keep the same oil radiator posistion so had to remount that in the center. Not sure on the original reason, but the lines are no longer crossed. possible due how high the rad sat on and where the most convenient mounts were.


the keen eyed may also also of notice that I've got rid of the large oil temp sensor adaptor and both sensors are fitted into 'oil pressure' adapters. The Stack oil temp sensor isn't as long as some ((probably one of the shortest i've seen from online pictures) and with a bit of work, the adapter was modified with the dremel to take out 2-3 mm to stop the sensor bottoming out.


Crashbar also fitted back.



Also the HCTR brake cooling ducts i fitted a few yrs ago needed to be remounted. they've been knocked about with dealer visits and my own moments which has cracked the mounting bracket. new metal L-brackets were made up and refitted. no more cable ties or slightly loose movement in them now. good proper solid mount.


All ready for Donnington trackday a week tomorrow :)
 

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Discussion Starter #105
today i unblocked washers again. drained and cleaned out the washer tank about a month ago but washers stoped working again. syphoned the tank out and was perfectly fine fluide so obviously else where in the system. this time removed the scuttle panel and blew out the washer jets. bleach & 1l hot water to first purge the system, leaft to stand for 20-30mins, ran through the entire tank and then a full tank of pure water. hopefully it'll remain fixed. i've a feeling it's a compatbility between the sonax nano 100:1 stuff and whatever the dealer use as it only started after it's most recent service.

also with the scuttle off, oil catch can install.
Mishimoto compact baffled catch can. Comes with 3/8bsp to 12mm barb, but thats no good for fk2... 3/8bsp to 8mm barb is needed, and 3m of 8mm ID hose.



PCV takeoff a bit different that FK8. FK2 is on the timing chain side of intake manifold rather than on top. Engine takeoff is also directly above it rather than the gearbox end of cam cover.


pipes routed round the engine


catch can bolts to slam panel, next to battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #106
DBA 4000t3's discs dropped and upgraded to girodisc's. if heat is still an issue, then i'll be going to carbotech XP12/20.



 

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Discussion Starter #107
been a few months of wondering what to do with breakes. I ended up swapping back to OE pads for a while while i figure it out.



along with the 2 piece girodiscs i fitted the other week along with the PBS pads, i decided to resign the dba discs and PBS's to winter use so not to waste previous purchases. DBA's have about 6months on them, pads maybe 1/4 warn.

Dixcel Z's refitted to the rear as they're about 60% worn now. will last another trackday but likely wont see past next spring.



instead of testing the PBS's on the girodiscs, i bought yet another set of pads; Carbone Lorraine RC6e. good for over 1000c. initial pad impressions are very impressive even if i've only driven on them for 5-10miles. very sharp initial braking, high & firm pedal, and modulation seems good. They're not quiet by any means but i miss the brake squeal i had on the OEM discs&pMu HC800. very sure these'll be noisier.



Once the PBS's wear out, i doubt I'll be buying them again. while they performed the best on track so far i never liked their feel. they just felt a bit soft and spongy and certainly didn't feel like the mu they claimed. not saying they're a bad pad, but just not one for me.
 

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RC6's are fantastic pads and I never managed to get them to fade on track.

They are quite unsympathetic to wheels and bodywork but that's not what you buy them for.
 

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Discussion Starter #109
RC6e's were very unsympathetic to discs too. in 6 weeks i chewed through 1/3rd of the girodiscs. RC6e's not for the road! they did perform perfect on the track though so i'll be swapping them in the paddock each event.
not sure if i said but i've replaced the cheap PVC pipe for catchcan with some silicone stuff. it didnt like the temps down the back of the engine in mid-summer so softened up and popped off a number of times.
fitted some high temp silicone dust seals to the brembos too. the factory ones just kept on cooking (although FAR better with Ti shims).
Not much else done to the car recently as it doesnt need it. Feels like i'm closing in on getting the car stable for track use even if it means swapping tyres & front pads everytime.

twinplate clutch also holding up and not given me ANY issues with shifting like i experienced early on with the factory or warranty clutch. We're on about month 17 now (vs 15 months when i started to feel problems) including track use, without a hint of shift issues. My only problem with it is HBA (hill brake assist) doesnt like the lower mass so very easy to stall or spin coming out of incline junctions.
 

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Out of interest, how do you find engine / oil temps on the track? Interested in comparing to the FK8 With all the issues that the Americans report.

I've noticed in the specs that the FK2 has substantially more coolant in total, and combined with the extra air volume above the engine I'm wondering if that's part of the difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #111 (Edited)
firstly, i run 10/10ths. i drive it like it's competitive. 15-20mins session times and i think the hottest i've been in is clear skys 22c. Obviously with it being a non-competitive event then i get held up by others and safety first... i dont wanna be damaging anyone/anything.

I've no issue at all with coolant temps reguardless of run time. completely standard there; OEM coolant, original rad etc. Needle always stays in the middle. Both TDI's IC and oilcooler behind upper grill/'H' badge has made no noticable difference.

As for oil, I'm trying to remember where i have my pro-control guages setup. i think it's <70c blue (cold), white is normal, red is 115c just to notify, and blinking red is 125c to tell me to back off.
I did have issues with initially. about 10mins into a session then the oil would be hitting 130C+. my own research sugested 0w20 full synth not to go above about 137c iirc as it breaks down. Thats when i fitted the oil cooler. i have to get a lot more than average full pace hotlaps in to get the temps up there even with 15-20min sessions. Traffic & flags usually make oil temps a non-issue now. edit: infact i can't remember when i've had to backoff with the oil cooler fitted. it seems to plateau below 130c. Still higher peak than i'd hope (120-125c wouldnt been nicer).

as for the FK8, i see that some of the coolers affect brake temps (HKS/dual coolers where it removed the brake duct) so if you havent already, look into the right one. I'm on an FK8 track car group Civic Type R FK8 Track Cars and seen either from there or civicx of black brembo calipers that have clearly got faaar to hot with owners putting it down to their oil cooler installs. Cant say i'm too jealous of the FK8 even if there are more mods available. as an FK2 owner looking at FK8 issues, it just doesnt seem to be the right platform. migth be worth looking into it again as i've not seen many coolant heat reports recently on FK8 - maybe there is a solution now that invovles lotsa cash!

another edit: i've 1 more service on my 5yr service plan which will get 0w20 put in. once i'm outta that then i'll likely go 5w30 (again, iirc) as thats what the manual states as a suitable alternative. Seems to be the way most are going when giving it the beans on track.
 

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Discussion Starter #112
@Haltamer - pinging you for above^^

the AR1's i ordered yesterday afternoon, arrived earlier today - unexpectedly quick as driftworks said 1-2days lead time! might be putting them on the car tonight just to scrub 'em up a bit for the few miles i might do between now and next friday.

I'm also expecting a morning of messing about with tyre pressures at the track. But at least Nankang give hot recommendations of 34-42 for 1.4ton+. see where the CTR feels happiest.
Hopefully running -1.5deg camber, they'll be happy at this. If not, means i'll have to replace my current ball joints again, but this time with the hardrace ones & get re-geo'd although -2 and higher i'll have to offset road rubber wear. so far there's no wear to be concerned about running -1.5

313084
 

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Discussion Starter #114
whaaat....their 40 profile... plenty thick! 😆

...also barely legal :p god knows how they're road legal as i'd imagine just plain dangerous in the wet or cold... once they've been scrubbed in this week, they'll be reserved soly for track use and swapped at the track.
 

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Cheers for the writeup; I've partially been investigating for the sheer fun of it, but also to add bits to future plans :p - Funnily enough, came across some of your comments on CivicX etc.

Just thinking, with regards to your brakes, I wonder how well the new OEM Discs / Pads for the 2020 FK8 would hold up under your use. Could pose a more cost effective option for the future! (Discs should probably work, I imagine you'd cook the pads though!)
 

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Discussion Starter #116
i was thinking about brakes the other day actually. One of the things i noticed on the CL pads were them being noticeably undersized based on tech specs. comparing pad patterns, CL are undersized in length by 1.3mm or so vs brembo size. A randomly chosen CL pad seems to be undersized too. it's only a theory at this point but i'm wondering if my past pads were expanding with the heat and binding up in the caliper causing slight drag. Obviously i know metal expands but figured it'd be irrelevant for pads.

pmu hc800 and pbs both rated for circuit use but i didnt have any luck with them. i know the pmu's needed some filing to fit in the caliper so i'd of done just enough to make them fit, not account for heat expansion.

i've heard the 2020 fk8 discs are 2 peice but the price i've heard makes me think their inferior. maybe not handed or something. any other 2peice is double the price so i remain skeptical.
I've still got the DBA 4000t3 1peice discs in the shed pending the looming minimum thickness of the factory OEM discs. i'll retest them on track eventually once i've more results from the girodiscs&CL pad combo.
 

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Discussion Starter #117 (Edited)
upgrade time, for unexpected failure.
recent trackday caused failure of the oil cooler and it's now scrap. goodbuy setrab 616, hello setrab 919 cooler.
from 16row * 330mm, to 19row * 405mm.

will be moving the cooler back to it's original right-most position (looking from the front), add additional cooler support, remove oil thermostat, which will then allow more flex in the oil hoses and stop another cooler death. also move the oil temp sensor to post-cooler which will show cooling ability. incar sump sensor for pre-cooler, and stack guage for post-cooler&pre-engine temps.

assuming HEL have it all in stock, kit should be here tomorrow...
 

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Discussion Starter #118
what a nightmare of a week i've had.
HEL couldnt get hold of the 919 cooler and accidentally sent the 619. a quick phone call reguarding the wrong parts to find out it was a mistake but also the 919 was delayed with setrab themselves and 2-3 week ETA so i got refunded the difference and kept the 619.
both 19 row, but 6-series is 330mm, 9-series is 405mm wide.

also ordered some new O-rings for the oil cooler m22 connection adapter. weird size at around 21mm ID * 1.6mm, so ebay it was. first order came as 1.3mm thick and wouldnt seal. so upped to 2mm thick which came almost a full week later and works fine.

for what was 2 lines and oil cooler swap it took far too long. between leaks, weather, test fitting, some very DIY fabrication it was about 1.5days total. longer than it took to fit the oil cooler kit in the first place!


brackets made up that are rivnutted to the top of the crash bar. cooler gotta be as low as possible and gives the most ammount of air through the grille.


19row + hel's own mounting bracket is also very close to the bumper. while there is contact its more like resting on top of, rather than forced. still plan to take a knife/dremel to it just ease off any contact. I'm also going to need to pop out for a strip of aluminium so i can finish the oil cooler top mount.


glad to have the car back in a running state again. Oil cooler seems far happier vibration-wise than what i had previously so hopefully this time it'll last.
 
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