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Discussion Starter #1
G'day all,

I'm running a 1200w amp in the boot which is powered with an 8AWG wire with a 60amp fuse. I'm having issues where after playing for prolonged periods of time (collectively though, as an example, let's call it a month), I have been experiencing bass cutouts... the usual cause is that either my fuse holder has melted (only slightly) or the wiring to or from the the fuse has 'burnt', effectively severing the connection...

I'm sick of having to replace the fuse and holder every month now and the wire I'm having to re-terminate in the engine bay is getting shorter and shorter and will soon run out and require rewiring though.

So... I'm looking to fellow Civinfoers for guidance...

1. Am I using the correct ampage fuse for my setup?
2. Should I be using 4 gauge wire instead?
3. If I am to be using 4 gauge wire, what fuse should I be using?

Thanks muchly.
 

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I would read the amplifier manual for the recommended fuse size and also what the RMS output of the amp is. Is it 1200w PMPO or RMS?

8AWG is suitable for up to 600w RMS at a length of 4 feet.

Recommended Power and Ground Cable Sizes & Speaker Wire Size and Length

Check this link for suitable cable thickness also related to distance you're running the cable.

If you amp is 1200w RMS then definitely use thicker gauge cable. The cable you have and the current draw from the amp is the reason its getting warm/hot and is a fire risk.

Once you get the right cable installed you could fit an audio capacitor to aid clipping and keep stable voltage to the amp whilst having it turned up for long periods.
 
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M42 = Home
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Discussion Starter #3
Wicked! Thanks mate. Will dig out the manual before committing to anything.

I should have asked ages ago, at least I wouldn't be driving a potential flaming meteor ;)

Thanks for clearing this up :)
 

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Just a thought, even if the amp is rated for 1200w RMS, you would have to have the volume incredibly high to actually use that amount of power, as in, likely maximum. Not only that, but the fuse is 60A, say 14v from battery, that is just 840w of power, and at no point have you said the fuse has blown, only that the holder has melted.

This leads me to believe that the issue may lie with the fuse holder rather than the wire being too thin, yes it should probably be 4AWG rather than 8AWG, but I doubt you are listening to the stereo so loud you are pulling 600w+ the majority of the time.

Perhaps the point of contact between the cable and the fuse holder is not enough, meaning that the current is going through a much smaller contact area than it should be, thus creating excess heat and melting the holder/burning the cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
In all honesty, I'm led to believe that it is 1200w RMS, but without having the manual handy, I can't be certain.

As for your comment regarding the fuse not blowing... I've not necessarily checked the fuse as the replacement fuse holders I buy come with a replacement 60a fuse, so have just swapped the whole unit out. I have checked the current fuse, and there doesn't appear to be any damage to it (I may need to crack open the fuse holder to examine it).

Volume wise, I'm rocking a JVC KW-R600BTE which has a max volume limit of 50, I'm listening at volume 30-35 90% of the time, with the remaining 10% of my listening time being around volume 10-15 for chatting with passengers/finding suitable 'bass intense' tracks.

Regarding the contact of wire to fuse holder, should I be using another kind of fuseholder? Or is there a particular method for ensuring this connection is terminated with a large contact point (i.e. solder the contact)? Because at present it is just that the sheath is stripped back, with the wire then placed into the metal contacts (as far as they will go), and then 'screwed' into the contact. The fuse holder is then sealed with a rubber stopper which is held solidly in place by a plastic clip screwing to the main body of the holder (and seems like a solid unit so it won't budge). I'm using one of these fuseholders (AGU Fuseholder) and always have done so advise if there are better ones which have better contact methods

I've got some 4AWG cable on order so will be replacing the whole 8AWG wire with that, tried tracing the wire and can't find where it goes through the grommet... bloody grommet!

Thanks for the advice.
 

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Whats the name and model number of the amp?
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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i would solder the wire to each end of the fuse holder it would give a much better surface contact and should stop the fuse holder from heating up unless the whole cable is getting hot which would suggest you need thicker wire

the xplod amps i can find seem to be 1200w peak ( 250w rms x2 into 4 ohms or 500w rms into 4 ohms single channel bridged ) which suggests a maximum current draw of around 35 amps and probably less than 20 amps average so the 60 amp fuse is fine
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Should say on the back of the amp, no?
I didn't think of checking the back of the amp! Good call! It's a Sony Xplod XM-2002GTW.

i would solder the wire to each end of the fuse holder it would give a much better surface contact and should stop the fuse holder from heating up unless the whole cable is getting hot which would suggest you need thicker wire

the xplod amps i can find seem to be 1200w peak ( 250w rms x2 into 4 ohms or 500w rms into 4 ohms single channel bridged ) which suggests a maximum current draw of around 35 amps and probably less than 20 amps average so the 60 amp fuse is fine
1200w is the peak indeed... didn't realise that myself, both subs are bridged.

I'm half thinking of upgrading the amp to something else that is 1200w RMS so a rewire to at least 4awg is a must anyway. So I agree that maybe a soldered terminal will make the decent contact it needs to stop burning out... hopefully.

Thanks guys.
 

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I didn't think of checking the back of the amp! Good call! It's a Sony Xplod XM-2002GTW.



1200w is the peak indeed... didn't realise that myself, both subs are bridged.

I'm half thinking of upgrading the amp to something else that is 1200w RMS so a rewire to at least 4awg is a must anyway. So I agree that maybe a soldered terminal will make the decent contact it needs to stop burning out... hopefully.

Thanks guys.
I would also re-examine your grounding points to the chassis of the car.
The negative cable from the amp should be short <1meter and the grounding point scraped to bare metal fixed with a bolt and a bit of electrical conductive grease.

When you think you've got what looks like a good ground sometimes isn't.
If you haven't it may still switch the amp on but may still have some resistance and cause a mild short causing wires to get hot etc.

Also just check everthing else is insulated along the circuit and not grounding anywhere where it shouldn't be other than where you want it to.

EDIT: Looks like your amp http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_15101_Sony-XM-2002GTW.html
 
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