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musegroove's FN2 - 250bhp NA Build

172K views 2K replies 64 participants last post by  musegroove 
#1 ·
Wasn't going to make a thread as I wasn't planning on modding past just the induction kit but got bit by the Civinfo bug and Loxy's old Silver FN2 build thread.

Previously had a NHB 2.2 civic, remapped it was a rocket but after racing a couple of FN2s it was far too heavy round the corners and ended up selling for a Milano Red FN2.

I'm planning on keeping NA, I could whip a SC kit in but feel it would take away the whole reason why I love owning Hondas (on my 4th).

Current Mods:
- Gruppe M Intake
- Tegiwa Header
- Tegiwa Sports Cat
- Milltek 2.5" Non-Res
- Eibach 15mm Springs
- FRS From Grinspeed
- Full Set Of Goodyear AS3s
- MTEC Grooved Discs
- Ferodo DS2500 All Round
- HEL Braided Brake Lines + RBF 660
- "Skunk2" Gear Knob - proper weight but turned out to be a copy
- Pumpkin Double Din
- MrBozo Folding Mirror Module
- Flashpro Group N

Planned Future Mods:
- Throttle Body - J35?
- RRC Inlet Manifold + Hondata Gasket
- TDi Stage 1 Cams
- FD2 Shaft Delete Kit
- TDi / Teg Short Shifter

Currently waiting for end of May to get it on TDi's rollers. Will post up gains and hopefully a chart then too.
 

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#6 ·
Cheers for the comments, I'll be sure to get it cleaned and get some pics up once the weather gets better.

Painted the calipers but got brake dust all over them before they fully dried, only need a quick touch up on a couple of bits :)

Wondering if I can hit 220bhp on the dyno? Not chasing figures as the butt dyno is always the better judge but would be nice.
Considering it's running terrible at the moment, the unlocked mid range torque still puts a smile on my face :grin2:
 
#7 ·
Has it been mapped?

Sure at TDI with current mods u would get up to 230 when mapped.

Without mapping not sure on group n plus mods.

Do you have engine mount inserts to reduce engine moving and maybe cracking manifold long term?
 
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#9 ·
Just got the group n map on until end of May as TDi has a nice backlog.
Paul said it will run OK until then just take it easy.

Just waiting for Grinspeed to get back to me with a price for the mounts unless anyone knows the usual cost of fitting?

The only issue I have with the car really is the clutch, it's very Jekyll and Hyde. Most days it's OK but others it's really harsh on engagement almost like you're dumping the clutch but obviously I'm not. If you engage the clutch at the optimal revs for the gear it has a hissy fit.

Grinspeed fitted a new clutch but didn't do the flywheel as it looked OK, had a garage flush the clutch fluid but it still looks dark and murky so thinking I might just do it myself and see how it goes.

Any ideas? Failing that I will ask Stevie when it's back up there.
 
#10 ·
Got a good price off Stevie for the mounts and been offered a FD2 TB for £110.

Anyone know if this is a good TB for the price? Heard it's the best for a daily driver as it keeps driveability and fits an RRC with no messing about. Heard J37 had some idling issues.

For an FD2 will I need a replacement hose between Gruppe M and TB?
 
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#12 ·
Thought I'd say thanks to Hygrade Motor Spares in Manchester :thumbsup:

Had a few civics for breaking including an FN2 and got a few bits for a great price.

Cruise control switch was goosed and got a spare bonnet insulation and weather strip for the Gruppe M so I don't cut up my own.

Sports cat is fully welded in and fitted and the car is now running MUCH better. Actually sounds better than decat was as Milltek resonated at just the right tone to make your ears bleed! Has that perfect race tone now with the header.

Just TDi left now. Scoping for a cheap RRC for grinspeed to fit before the remap along with the FD2 TB then cams and oil pump next year after my wallet recovers ;)
 
#14 ·
Cheers :) Spent many hours browsing your extensive build threads.

Would you recommend TDi DICs still? Think they'll be the end goal along with the FD2 oil pump.
 
#16 ·
I bought the FD2 TB that was on the facebook page.

Turned out to just be an OEM one -.-
Got a decent RRC manifold with it so hopefully getting my cash back for the TB later.

Will be selling the RRC if I don't find a FD2 TB before TDi remap and just do it all next year with the cams.
 
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#19 ·
I'm around the Trafford Centre area :)

Decided RRC & TB are for next year along with the cams as I found an insurer that covers all the mods for less than £600.

Halfway through my policy so rather not cancel now.

Also found out where the fuel cut off switch is the hard way after banging the panel back in place once I replaced my broken CC switch... fun times at 11pm in my work car park!

Had the engine bay stripped looking for the cause lit up by my blue light saber keyring
 
#22 ·
:thumbsup:

You can't miss me, I'm the one in a red CTR doing 25mph everywhere until my remap :crying:
 
#27 ·
New pedal picked up to get rid of the creak. Thought it was the CMC but turned out to be the springs.

Also turns out I need the only missing bit in my socket set so having a BBQ instead xD
 

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#28 ·
Super chuffed with myself, pedal box & CMC replaced.

No problems, leaks and importantly.. clicks!

For someone that never went near his car with a spanner back in Jan I've done most of the work minus the clutch and header.

Sorting out the milltek rattles today with the powerflex hangers then polybush mounts + full service (inc valve clearences) at Grinspeed on Tuesday.

Will also get Stevie to fix my saggy undertray, my road has 6 speedbumps and I died a little inside yesterday when I cruised past a bunch of people checking out my car only to scrape on a bump xD
 
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#31 ·
Mugen Quick Shifter ordered from Japan for a great price, going to start praying to the import duty gods! :adore:
 

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#34 ·
Good times getting ready for next week's remap :)
 

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#35 ·
In regards to the mounts... wow what a difference.

Stevie said that stock were in good nick so must be crap mounts in general then! Difference is staggering. Gear changes are now consistent and on/off throttle is smooth as silk, feel a lot more "attached" to the engine response now. Did the 2 underside ones (left the top as it causes the most vibrations and I can whip that on in 30mins if I fancied it in the future myself).

Also full service done, sparks were white :( Runs much better and got an extra 8 mpg on the way home (mine has always been on the low side of economy) so hopefully up to what it should be now.

Highly recommend the mounts.
 
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#36 · (Edited)
Tesco bleach, water + 99p syringe and got rid of 90% of the algae from the rear lights.

Will get some anti algae and after a few more washes should be algae-free :)

Third pic shows the difference after a squirt, 5 minute wait then rinse.
 

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#38 ·
20/80 bleach/water is what I read elsewhere. I bought the thinner bleach so it ran better through the gaps so did 40/60 with no issues. Just wiped it off paint before leaving to eat away at the algae.

Also wore my fav hoody like an idiot and bleached my pocket :(
 
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