2006+ Honda Civic Forum banner
21 - 40 of 48 Posts
How about lets agree to disagree...

I know I am not the only one "Benefitted" from this... and it happened when my battery went flat and I had to recharge it..so I KNOW there is a difference when the battery is disconnected!
 
There is a difference!
I just went outside and disconnected my battery, it wouldn't start :(
But it did when reconnected it! Strange huh ?

No im kidding about that^

But from what i've heard of many people doing this, it makes a small difference... No one is saying "JEEEZ MY CAR IS 50BHP MORE POWERFUL!"

It does reset ECU data. Which backs up what Nick7 says i guess.
If the first lot of data is all complete ECO, it will adapt to it.
If it is all polar opposite, it will see you aren't very ECO
(No one mentioned WOT driving either :p Flat-out is Flat-out...)


Lets not be having any arguement or rubbish on here, it's all love here !!!
So lets not burst any bubbles either :p

If people believe it makes mid range difference, let them!! It makes us all smile to hear a nice happy person!! haha
(I Do ^^ hehe)
 
Amen 2 that...
(no comment on Religion or discrimination or argument ;) )
 
:grouphug:
 
For the 2.2
IMO from the way the MAF/MAP and VE are all over the place right after a battery disconnect and the way they group together again over time afterward....with wide open throttle runs....

It would appear that yes....the ECU adapts to the closed loop for finetuning to the environment.
BUT also adapts to the sensors for fine tuning... which includes wide open throttle or open loop if you like, because open loop still depends on sensor feedback like MAP MAF IAT etc.

Of course there is no guarantee the 1.8 ecu behaves the same as the 2.2
Hence the IMO ;)
 
Nick.... You are obviously very knowledgeable. Is this how our ecu works specifically for the R18a2 or just in general?
That is in general how ECU works.

I've spent my fair share of time researching how ECU's work, due to turbo-ing my old Civic.
Spent a lot of time examining programs like Uberdata and Crome, and overall that stuff.
Also, my old Civic is now hybrid -> 96+Civic which is OBD2 has OBD1 engine&ECU which required sh*tload off rewiring (basically all connectors are different) to make it all work.

Now, back to topic.. that's how ECU works.
For 'dynamic' part which is low/half throttle it may 'learn' stuff, but that's mainly due to O2 sensor, and being ECO-friendly.
Under WOT, there's no 'learning'. Just reading what sensors say and work accordingly to it.

As for '-1', '-2', ... dudes: I know how some things works, because I researched it. A lot. I do not need to burn my hand in fire to know it's hot.

But, for everyone it's own. If you believe your car is faster with each ECU reset, do it...
 
No disrepespect Nick.... the kind of research you done takes ages to work out and put to use.
ECUs have moved on since '96 though :thumbsup:

I'll post datalogs later.
Id do 4 consecutive WOT runs across the full rev range.
Then overloay the results of each run.
Straight after an ECU reset they are all over the place.
After a couple of hundred miles the ovelays cluster together.

In other words hit and miss erratic WOT performance has been converted to consistant WOT performance.

This is I think, what everyone on here is reporting as well.
 
i dont know much about how a acu works but if i drive like a granny and then want to overtake a tracker i wouldnt want my civic to be in eco mode im pritty sure honda wouldnt make a 140bhp car that only runs at full power if you drive it fast everyday of the week!!! i have nothing to back this up but a boyracers civic would be not faster then mine if it was the same civic
 
Hmmm this is interesting. I have had my civic for 2 months almost and it is a second hand car. Initially reading this thread I was hoping that I would be able to improve the performance of the car as it can be a bit sluggish though it seems that the closed loop just helps out with ECO. Which is strange as my economy seems to be poor.
 
Hmmm this is interesting. I have had my civic for 2 months almost and it is a second hand car. Initially reading this thread I was hoping that I would be able to improve the performance of the car as it can be a bit sluggish though it seems that the closed loop just helps out with ECO. Which is strange as my economy seems to be poor.
You William, our impartial forum friend can be a GENUINE guinea pig!
Why don't you try removing your battery for a few minutes as suggested and then state the difference...IF there is found to be one?

For the good of the community!:popcorn::worms:
 
Apart from this battery disconnect thing... Aint there already performance mods for the R18 engine? Don't think I've heard from a 1.8 owner to have said there's any gains... or am I wrong?
 
Below is two pdfs with data logs.
There is 3x charts at the end of each pdf.
Compare them side by side ;)

Postfilter1 is immediately after changing the filter and battery pulled.
Postfilter3 is next day.
Both are 4 consecutive WOT runs overlaid.

;)

:popcorn:
 

Attachments

I might just do that as I need to replace the battery. The battery.looks like the original one that it came out of swindon with... it also has yellow residue on the battery connectors, which according to the manual is a bad sign.

Quick question, when I take the battery out, will everything be wiped? Eg the sat nav, radio stations, car pin that connects to your key?
 
Key mating... no.
Radio presets... maybe.
Clock yea.
Sat.... dont know... aint got it :D
 
Apart from this battery disconnect thing... Aint there already performance mods for the R18 engine? Don't think I've heard from a 1.8 owner to have said there's any gains... or am I wrong?
Look in USA Forums - the USA engine is identical to the Euro model (gearbox is different, as is exhaust, etc.) ...

Lots of performance mods for the 1.8 there - up to and including both Superchargers & Turbochargers (the latter being horribly expensive) ...
 
21 - 40 of 48 Posts