Okay, I’ve narrowed it down. I’ve inspected the engine and found some problems.
Here’s a picture to make things more clear.

If I Rev the engine the valve control rod (Point 2) keeps the valve closed. If I shutdown the engine, nothing happens. But when I remove tubing 1 (on picture) the control rod moves and opens up the valve completely. This moves freely, so no stuck valves here. Somehow the vacuum in the tubing isn’t released. I suspect of a malfunction in item number 3. I’ve looked it up and it’s called a “Throttle Body EGR CONTROL” or “VACUUM VALVE EMISSION” I think this thing releases vacuum.
But when I look at the separate part on internet images, it has some kind of cylinder on it:

In my car it has an extra tubing (point 4 in picture). I think this cylinder is some kind of air filter. But where does the tubing go to in my car? Some unified air filter or something?
Do you guy’s also think the problem is part 3?

 

It could very well be the solenoid (item number 3). My 2008 civic had this item replaced under warranty. My engine light would also come on, don't know what the code was, but the diagnostics indicated it was the cause.

 

Hi Justdev. Thanks for the reply.
Has this item the same name as: "EGR valve controller"? (this supposed to be replaced).
Or is the EGR Valve the same as the Swirl Valve?

 

IMRC issues are usually the solenoid. It isn't worth cleaning/freeing the IMRC as you have already proved it isn't stuck by disconnecting the vac line. The solenoid relieves the vacuum by admitting air, hence the cylindrical filter.

The swirl valve does not allow extra air into the cylinders, but allows the ECU to 'disrupt' the airflow from the inlet manifold to the cylinders in such a way as to make it either smooth (laminar) or swirly (tubulent)... this helps combustion across differing rev ranges and engine loading.

The EGR valve controls how much exhaust gas is recirculated into the inlet manifold and has very little to do with the IMRC, other than the recycled gases flow though the IMRC and deposit soot, oil and other crud.

 

So these are separate things. Just to be clear, point 2 on my picture is the swirl valve control rod and not the egr valve control rod right? And the "solenoid" has nothing to do with the "EGR valve controller" right?

 

Correct on all accounts.

 

It might be worth checking the filter isn't blocked... I've heard of this causing a problem, but I have no personal experience of this problem.

For interest, there is a similar EVR controller for the turbo boost control (I believe it might be interchangeable with the IMRC swirl control unit on Civics, so might be a useful swop?). Sorry for not being sure, but I have a slightly different (& older) version of the i-CTDi in my Accord... EGR is directly electrically-operated on my car (and some of the pipework appears to be different).

 

i have the same p2006 problem

 

Inlet Manifold Runner Control (Swirl valve).

There is two air paths into the engine.
One to each inlet valve.
The IMRC has a throttle plate that closes one air path.
This forces the air past the EGR air path and then past one valve only.
This assymetric airflow forces the air in the combustion chamber to spin or swirl

This IMRC valve can adopt any angle...allowing more or less air through the 2nd air channel like a throttle plate.
It only works upto around 3k rpm and upto mid fuel loads.
Beyond this it is fully open to allow maximum airflow.

 

Hi everybody, thanks for the explaining and the addendum to my picture. A mechanic has replaced the solenoid (although I have warranty on the car, I'd like to understand the inner workings of the engine and maybe I can do some investigation on my own to help the mechanic a bit), but according to him the problem still existed. replaced it again with the original solenoid, and switched the rubber tubes on it. According to the mechanic, the problem was resolved, but when I drove it home the "check system" error came back after a 4 km drive. I have taken a look at the swirl valve, but it stays indeed close no matter what rpm. Same P2006 error code.

So there has been some messing around with the tubing, I haven't changed the original tubing, but maybe it was wrongly wired when they assembled the engine after the injector replacement. I truly can't figure out how the tubing is worked out. Makes no sense to me how everything is connected. Is there some kind of diagram picture online?

 

...

 

Okay, I probably have found the error. I have found a schematic picture of the vacuum lines. And I believe the mechanic made a mistake. On my 2006 Honda, there are no air filters on the solenoids. And the mechanic connected the air inlet of the turbocharger boost control with the air inlet of the IMRC solenoid valve (See the red line on the drawing).

This is a single line without a T connection. If I detach this hose, the IMRC Valve seems to work okay. Of course I don’t know how exactly it supposed to react, but it does move when I push the throttle. Although it never seems to fully close, even when the engine just idles. The p2006 code does not come back if I reset it, but don’t know for sure because I haven’t driven with the car yet. Strange I didn’t get any turbo solenoid valve control errors, looks to me this shouldn’t work either this way.

Obviously there needs to be an air filter on this line before I test drive it. But where was this line original connected to in a 2006 Civic? Probably a main air filter somewhere. Anyone?

Thanks.

 

So every circuit/solenoid should have:
1. Air in > from filter
2. Vacuum in > from pump.
3. Air/Vacuum line > to device

It looks like what should be a plugged T piece has been used by mistake.
4. Plugged T piece if fitted.

Looks like the IMRC circuit has a remote filter.....where the other solenoids have the filter built in or attached.

 

The EGR solenoid has his own black cilinder filter attached. So, no line to a unified filter somewhere.

I've test driven the car with a temporary made air filter, and it looks like its been fixed. No engine errors anymore and it seems like I have more power. There also was a noise I only could describe like a waste gate flushing (I know the car does not have a waste gate). This is also gone, so i guess something is changed in the turbo system also. Also the fuel consumption progress bar act way more quickly then before. If I push the throttle it imidiately shoots up the fuel consumption, before the adjustment there was more lag between pushing the throttle and see the progressbar moving. So the fuel consumption has gone up when I accelerate, but when I keep a steady speed, the fuel consumption progressbar indicator gives me one stripe less

 

What have you connected your temporary air filter to? Each EVR/solenoid should have its own air admittance filter.

But glad to see you are getting some success!

 

Hi, sorry didn't realize there where some questions. I've eventually solved it by giving each solenoid its own "air" filter. I've used small moped petrol filters, and works great.

 

Thanks for updating. So these solenoid valves are basically pneumatic 3/2 valves.

 

yep.

Here's a picture of the moped petrol filters I've used as air filters.

 

Thanks for all this guys. My motor is throwing up the same code too. Doesn't seem to make much difference to performance but I think the MPG is suffering.
So have we decided what the problem is? Perishing hoses? Blocked fillers? Not enough fillers?
Could a clogged egr throw up this fault and code?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

Thanks for all this guys. My motor is throwing up the same code too. Doesn't seem to make much difference to performance but I think the MPG is suffering.
So have we decided what the problem is? Perishing hoses? Blocked fillers? Not enough fillers?
Could a clogged egr throw up this fault and code?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

Does the valve control rod (Point 2) move when revving the engine?

 

Mine throws this code every now and then, apparently the valve in question is prone to internal leaks, I usually just erase the code and it often doesn't show again for a couple of months, I have noticed no odd effects nor any increase in fuel consumption, so unless I get some concrete symptoms I will leave it be, in any case at £120 + just to stop only a CEL.........

 

I've got a 2007 2.2 ctdi engine management light keeps comin on and putting the car into limp mode limiting it to 70 mph I've so far , taken it for 2 diagnosis both came bak saying its the variable intake manifold or erg valve bought a second hand erg valve, engine management light still comin on taken car for another diagnosis in the morning

 

I've got a 2007 2.2 ctdi engine management light keeps comin on and putting the car into limp mode limiting it to 70 mph I've so far , taken it for 2 diagnosis both came bak saying its the variable intake manifold or erg valve bought a second hand erg valve, engine management light still comin on taken car for another diagnosis in the morning

Get them to tell you the actual error code. It might be a the EVR actuator rather than the EGR valve. Or something else altogether.

 

Help with fault code

I've read with interest all that is above, my issue is I can't even locate any of these parts on my car. It is a 2008 diesel.

Can anyone point me in the right direction to to locate the intake manifold runner control - mine is stuck open and not closed, but I'm guessing similar issue.

Any help would be appreciated, so I can check to see if it moves or not?

Many thanks!

 

It's under the engine cover. Had similar faults a few months ago and replace the IMRC and reset.

 

Can I replace it myself and where can I get one??

 

Of course you can! saves you a lot money, and very easy to do, when I done mine I clean the egr as well, takes me 2 hours to do everything. I bought the parts from Cox honda. Spent £ 138 half of the cost honda dealer quote.

 

Every few thousand kilometers or so my car cuts out during rapid acceleration. I've changed the fuel filter and the problem still persists. Last time it did that it was so severe that car went into safe mode and glow plugs light came on.

Mechanic checked the codes and told me that some valve wasn't operating properly. He described to me that this valve only directs the airflow via shorter or longer path and is nothing to be worried about and we can fix it some other time.

After doing the research I came across this thread.

Can anybody describe the procedure how to go about identifying which part is faulty and repairing it?

From my understanding it can be faulty solenoid (item number 3 on the pictures). How to test this?

There is also an air filter between 3 and 4. Can anybody describe in more detail how Satoer replaced the air filter with some part from moped? What does that air filter even do?

Then there is a part between 1 and 2. Is this the actual valve that can get cleaned or this part just moves the real valve?

Hope someone from this year old thread is still around

 

Did you fit the correct OEM (Denso) fuel filter?

Can you see the swirl valve linkage (#2) moving as the engine is revved? Is it free to move if you try by hand? What codes are you getting?

The part between #1 & #2 is a vacuum bellows that moves the linkage. Part #3 is a solenoid that allows electrical signals from the ECU to control the vacuum (generated by an engine-driven pump) to the bellows, via pipe #1. The vacuum is then relieved via the filter (top left of part #3) to allow the linkage to move back to its original position.

With the engine off, applying an external vacuum should cause the linkage to move, demonstrating that the bellows are not split and that the swirl valves are free to move (they can become coked up). If this works OK, but you still get P2004, P2006 or P2008 codes then the fault is almost certainly the Frequency Solenoid Valve (#3). But it's worth checking first that the filter isn't blocked, simply by pulling it off and then trying it.