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FN2 Brake Bleeding - soft pedal issues

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22K views 53 replies 8 participants last post by  armand.seferi20  
#1 · (Edited)
hi all
so more problems with my damn cursed FN2...


a while ago I noticed my front left caliper was starting to stick a little, when inspected the outer rubber weather seal was badly torn, and piston had a little corrosion in the center

bought a caliper rebuild kit off ebay, id not rebuilt a caliper before so viewed some how to vids on youtube

took caliper off gave it a real good clean out, put new piston and seal in. I put a thin layer of "Brake fluid compatible red rubber grease" all around the Piston / piston rubber ring seal (cause id seen a youtube video and guy did this on his FN2 front caliper refurb)


put all back together and tried to bleed just that brake line by myself , ended up doing it wrong cause had a very spongy pedal after (also I used cheap dot4 brake fluid from local shop and mixed a little in with genuine Honda fluid that was in there"

just left it as it was for a good while as hardly use the car, sometimes when hitting the brakes the pedal would sort of sink and make a noise or slight vibration..


today ive bled that front left brake again properly "2 man method" thinking this would solve my issue. was done properly (undo nipple / push pedal in / close nipple / let pedal up and repeat few times ) until no air bubbles were seen in the clear tube.

pumped brake after and it went rock hard / solid. but when i started the engine and pumped brake while sat in neutral it Was too soft again.
took it out for a drive and its still very spongy, maybe even worse than before..

I dont have any leaks in the system.


when id topped the master cylinder back up after bleeding the fluid in there looked a bit Cloudy. didn't look like this last time seen it,
is it possible that the red rubber grease I put on the piston when rebuilding the caliper may have contaminated the brake fluid?
I did wonder about this when I put it on, but it says on the tin its "brake fluid safe" and the youtube vids I seen they used it

when I got the car 7mths ago the brakes were extremely good, best id ever felt. the car had always been serviced at Honda and never had any none genuine Honda parts on. it had all new Honda discs / pads on when I got it and a recent brake fluid change..
 
#35 · (Edited)






Just got couple vids done, listen for the noise near the end of each clip

When it makes the grind noise i looked at the dash, theres no abs lights coming on or anythin else

Dunno if its worth metioning too but after a 5min slow drive just and some easy braking when i got home all 4 brake discs are too hot to touch

I been aware of them getting seemingly hot for a while, i defo dont have any sticking calipers, ive checked them all when i rebuilt the front left one while back

All 4 wheels spin real freely when jacked up, no feeling of sticking brakes when driving and putting in neutral and letting it roll
All caliper slider pins were checked and are perfect, nice and free, pad shims were wire brushed and copper greased, pads go in and out of the shims freely.
 
#37 ·
Tyre pressures spot on,

On the abs matter

Months ago i was under dash adjusting clutch pedal height.

When i started the car after i had abs and vsa lights on dash, for a week or two they came on intermittently

Then they stayed on permanently,
reading up on google a bad wheel sensor was likely cause but i didnt have a scanner to find out which one, as i barely used the car i just ignored it

One night someone in front of me made me slam on and car skidded a little bit

I took both rear wheels / brake discs off and cleaned the sensors and the toothed metal cogs the sensors read from, the metal cogs were full of orange rusty colour dust

My warning lights went out about 2wks after cleaning the rear sensors and never came back on

Few weeks ago i got a foxwell nt650 scanner cause id cleaned T/body and the tps needed resetting
The scanner does abs to, i did a scan and it had a stored code for 'rear right wheel sensor open circuit' but id had no warning lights come back on for a long time

I cleared the codes and the next day i got the abs/vsa light come on again, but day after they went off again

And that repeated one more time,
theyve not come on again for last couple weeks, scanned abs few times and showing no faults

My scanner does live data too, i had it plugged in while driving round for good while, the live data display showed all 4 abs wheel speed sensors. All 4 sensors were working fine throughout / giving the same speed reading for each wheel

So not sure whats goin on there, maybe its a intermittent wiring problem in the connector or something..

Ive slammed on the brake few times and the car has not locked up / skidded
 
#43 ·
Well my abs/vsa light just came on again when i nipped out

Plugged the foxwell in, rear right sensor again

Seeing as this is intermittent, do i need a new sensor or could it be wiring / bad plug connection etc
Yesterday that sensor was registering wheel speed why driving perfectly on live data on the scanner.

I thought if the abs sensor stops working then it stops working

Ive already cleaned it a while back an the metal toothed cog it reads from.

Will take disc off have another look

I should be bleeding all 4 wheels again this week sometime when i get some more fluid haha
 
#45 ·
id buy a sensor from ebay like i did about 13 quid and i ran car for about five years and and as far as i know 18months after switching to 9g a old friend is running round in my old 2.2 still going strong
when the abs sensor went on mine i had about a month when light popped on and off till staying on thats when i bought the foxwell code reader bought code reader and sensor for less than a sensor off honda never mind labour charge for reading code
 
#46 ·
The vid sounds like ABS pump kicking in.
Just a fyi, my OSR abs went recently and I had the exact same thing, pump kicking in under relatively light brake applications.
Only I had a abs fault light on.

Replaced sensor for one off eBay and all fine. I don't know why the pump kicks in when theirs a fault you would think abs would be off but it must be partially on or the car thinks it's skidding unevenly causing the brake force distribution to try and correct it (if these cars have it).

Either way would look to replace the offending sensor. Eventually it will stay on permanently anyway
 
#47 ·
simple to replace even if you have to drill the old 1 out
if you need to drill it out just remove disc and you can gently drill though a hole on the hub
 
#49 · (Edited)
Cant say i do, in the short time i had it i had 2 of the main 3 faults

Head gasket blew

Car caught fire, common fault on them, over heating circuit on back of the speedo/clocks. flames coming through top of dashboard, and this happened why it was parked on a petrol station not too far from the pumps..

I left it running why i ran in shop for some cigs, the look on the cashiers face when someone said 'whos is that car on fire outside' was priceless

When i ran outside with the shops fire extinguisher the doors were locked, somethin had triggered the central locking, so i to had smash drivers window with the fire extinguisher then put it out,

White fire powder everywhere. Fire brigade came shortly after and declared it safe

Luckily my dads mate was an auto elec, i had get a full car wiring loom and dash/ clocks, he charged me 300 to fit it all and did it all perfectly



Then it got sold and the first cosworth came next..
 

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#52 ·
I'll try bleeding them all again first using the methods suggested on here, 2 men, not letting pedal go all way down to floor when bleeding etc

I think your referring to crimping each flexi brake hose while bleeding as someone mentioned? To see if pedal then gos hard?

Will try that it the re-bleed dont work again

When i checked all my calipers after rebuilding one, i checked all the hoses then, all looked fine to the eye, no rotting / swelling etc,
and the fluid flowed back through them fine when undoing the bleed nipple, ie, when i was checking the brakes were fully releasing and the wheel didnt spin anymore freely after undoing the nipple

Im starting to think this dodgy rear right abs sensor may have something do with it...

I cant remember whether the abs/vsa light first came on before i rebuilt and bled the front left caliper or if it was other way round, either way i know the 2 happened in a very short time apart.
 
#53 ·
What's the logical thinking that says a faulty ABS sensor will cause your sof pedal problem when you are stationary. Please explain.
I'll try bleeding them all again first using the methods suggested on here,
No, don't do that to start with, you might just be chucking even more fluid away for no benefit.
I think your referring to crimping each flexi brake hose while bleeding as someone mentioned [/quote/
No I'm not. I'm talking about just pinch off the flexibles in turn and then test the pedal between (With the engine running). If one of them pinched off makes the pedal go harder, then you have found the problem wheel. Then bleed it.