Great find!!
Thanks for reviving it

Would this make it easier to install RickHondaR's footwell lights?

 

There are a couple of other pins in there, anyone know if any are 12v constant? Will have to get the multimeter out otherwise...

 

But you could also short things out doing that.

Okay so just tested:
Bottom left is +12V constant
Bottom right is +12V switched with ignition
Top right is +12V switched with headlights

Not sure if top left is a ground or not yet.

Is their an option connector plug you can get from honda?
Using the bottom right is a nice way to wire up DRL for those whos cars are under warranty but do not want to cut the wires, just a straight plug in and remove.

 

There are 6 pins in the connector, 4 across the top and two at the bottom. I have used a naming convention as you look at the pins in the open connector space.

Top far left: +12V when reverse gear is engaged, 0V otherwise.

Top left: A fluctuating voltage which ranges +0.3 < V < +0.8 when ignition is switched, 0V otherwise. No idea what this is for.

Top right: +1.3V with sidelights, 0V otherwise. Again, not sure what this is for.

Top far right: +12V with sidelights, 0V otherwise.

Bottom left: +12V constant from battery.

Bottom right: +12V switched with ignition, 0V otherwise.

To find a ground source, there are bolts that hold the pull levers for fuel cap and bonnet behind the plastic trim which you can route a wire to easily enough.

 

Okay so just tested:
Bottom left is +12V constant
Bottom right is +12V switched with ignition
Top right is +12V switched with headlights

Not sure if top left is a ground or not yet.

Edit: Top left is a ground connection (0 resistance to the frame)

Good to know

 

Thanks guys great to know this. I always hate cutting wiring looms.

 

Little bit of an update; one of the two feeds, either the +12V constant or the +12V ignition, are disabled when engaging reverse gear.

Very peculiar!

 

So before I go poking around on the other pins in the option connector, does anyone know what they do? Would like to find one that doesn't switch off when engaging reverse so will have the multimeter out again over the next few days.
Can't find anything in the official documentation.

 

Guys I would like to make a final statement on this following testing.

There are 6 pins in the connector, 4 across the top and two at the bottom. I have used a naming convention as you look at the pins in the open connector space.

Top far left: +12V when reverse gear is engaged, 0V otherwise.

Top left: A fluctuating voltage which ranges +0.3 < V < +0.8 when ignition is switched, 0V otherwise. No idea what this is for.

Top right: +1.3V with sidelights, 0V otherwise. Again, not sure what this is for.

Top far right: +12V with sidelights, 0V otherwise.

Bottom left: +12V constant from battery.

Bottom right: +12V switched with ignition, 0V otherwise.

To find a ground source, there are bolts that hold the pull levers for fuel cap and bonnet behind the plastic trim which you can route a wire to easily enough.

 

Just to confirm this also applies to the option connector in the (9g's), but it seems the pin for fluctuating voltage +0.3 < V < +0.8 has been deleted.

9G Fuse Panel

BTW The lower drivers side dash panel simply and easily unclips (no screws) giving good access to fuse box/MCIU #1

The option connector is rotated 90 degrees on the 9G and all pins live without fuse 27 (Something different on new models)



.

 

So does the +12v constant or the +12v ignition switch off when in Reverse?

 

No, both remain on.
I had assumed the top far left to be a ground connection but as it was +12V when in reverse this caused my connected devices to switch off - as it wasn't a ground anymore!
Just had confused myself slightly so I went and did some more testing and got the above results.

 

Now i just have to find the connector part and see how much it is.

 

Did anyone already sourced this connector block out?

 

I had no trouble with the mini spade connectors mentioned in the first post - they fit the pins exactly and have a nice simple crimp connection onto the wires.
Not sure what you have available though?
Even if you locate the plug I wouldn't count on it coming with the correct pins for wire connection...

 

Pins can be made using the mini spade connectors, wires can be held in with superglue.

 

Is there much point in using the connector then? :dontknow:

 

would look neater, less chance of short and if you sell the car it looks OEM.

 

True but you can't see it unless you get under the dash... agree with less chance of a short but as long as you pull the fuse in #27 before fiddling about then you're safe.

Each to their own but can't personally see the advantage in trying to source the connector TBH!

 

I sheathed the female spade connector with heat shrink, but even without the are far enough apart not to short.

 

+1, they aren't going to short when connected. Just need to make sure that you've removed power when connecting the spades in case of accidental cross contact but then again it's a fused supply so shouldn't suffer as the fuse should go first...

 

So, am i correct in saying that u MUST have a fuse in #27?

Wat if i were to connect multiple items (gauges) to the ignition +12v, considering each gauge has its own fuse? Would i just multiple each fuse for the gauges together and then put a slightly bigger fuse in #27?

Would that work?

Also, with the +12 with side lights on, assuming side lights are parkers/headlights. Can that be used to power the lights for the gauges?

And again, a fusing concern here?

 

So, am i correct in saying that u MUST have a fuse in #27?

Wat if i were to connect multiple items (gauges) to the ignition +12v, considering each gauge has its own fuse? Would i just multiple each fuse for the gauges together and then put a slightly bigger fuse in #27?

Would that work?

You need a fuse in #27.
Not sure what gauges you're using but mine daisy chained together so I didn't need to route them all back to the connector.

If you're using gauges with inline fuses you can use something much bigger to activate the connector.
Remember that if you connect them in series the current is the same across the circuit so your inline fuses will need to be able to cope, so I'd suggest connecting them in parallel with something slightly larger than the sum of them in #27.

 

My plan was to connect one wire to the option connector, then connect that wire to a fused junction/distribution block and then connect each gauge off that.

I am using Autometer gauges, 5 of them, just for fun

My other concern is for the lighting of the gauges. How would the fuse in #27 work with that?

 

That will work as each of the branches will have a lower value based on the resistance of each gauge and the fuse in #27 will total that.

Not sure I understand your last question; the lighting would also be fused through #27 as long as you wire everything through the option connector.

 

You'll never need that much - despite having 5A fuses I bet those gauges draw way less current than that. I have 2 Prosport gauges with a 10A fuse, that powers the gauges, lights and electrical sensors and I think 10A is too high!

Will check the tech specs when I can get in front of a computer.

 

This guy has done some testing - 6 gauges and less than 1A draw!

 

This guy has done some testing - 6 gauges and less than 1A draw!

How Much Current Do My Auto Meter Gauges Draw? - YouTube

So, I guess after watching that little demonstration, I would get away with a 10Amp fuse in #27 and even that would be over kill.

Thank you so much for your help. It will make installation so much easier now knowing the option connector pins.

BTW, with reference to side lights, am I correct in assuming that this means parkers/headlights?

 

You are very welcome.
By sidelights I am referring to the first light setting on the stalk, before your headlights - you might know them as position lights? As soon as you have any form of headlight switched on then that connection is +12V.

 

Gold!!!

Currently in the process of making my gauge pod and also going to attempt to move the centre screen/clock display from the middle of the dash to the right of the speedo. Big work ahead for me at the moment.

Once its all done, I'll post some pictures up for all to see.

 

Good luck!
FYI the piece to the right of the speedo is non-removable; it's part of the moulded dash so be really sure before you go to remove it

Look forward to the pics.

 

Good luck!
FYI the piece to the right of the speedo is non-removable; it's part of the moulded dash so be really sure before you go to remove it

Look forward to the pics.

I'm not going to be so much removing bits as opposed to moulding things in. However, once its there, it wont be going anywhere.

 

I think pin top right with 1.3v could be for interior leds, as the ex includes, to light the feet zone.

 

1.3V is really low though, even for LEDs I'd expect a minimum of 5V? I didn't test what the reading was with the interior lights on/off which was a bit of an oversight now I think of it :facepalm:

 

1.3v could be used for a relay but then again it may not have enough juice to activate the relay.

 

I think I'd settle for the knowledge of what it was intended for tbh!

 

well what can 1.3v power?

LEDs?
Nope, they need about 3.3v

HFT
bluetooth may work with 1.3v but i doubt it.
the new DDR4 memory can work with this voltage.

Lets not forget the other one that has .3v and goes to .8v.
What can that power?, nothing.

 

well what can 1.3v power?

LEDs?
Nope, they need about 3.3v

HFT
bluetooth may work with 1.3v but i doubt it.

Lets not forget the other one that has .3v and goes to .8v.
What can that power?, nothing.

That's about where I'm at! :hmmmm2::hmmmm2:

 

Have you tried testing those with the doors closed?