[Syx]

I sheathed the female spade connector with heat shrink, but even without the are far enough apart not to short.

+1, they aren't going to short when connected. Just need to make sure that you've removed power when connecting the spades in case of accidental cross contact but then again it's a fused supply so shouldn't suffer as the fuse should go first...

 

[tdan7260]

So, am i correct in saying that u MUST have a fuse in #27?

Wat if i were to connect multiple items (gauges) to the ignition +12v, considering each gauge has its own fuse? Would i just multiple each fuse for the gauges together and then put a slightly bigger fuse in #27?

Would that work?

Also, with the +12 with side lights on, assuming side lights are parkers/headlights. Can that be used to power the lights for the gauges?

And again, a fusing concern here?

 

[Syx]

So, am i correct in saying that u MUST have a fuse in #27?

Wat if i were to connect multiple items (gauges) to the ignition +12v, considering each gauge has its own fuse? Would i just multiple each fuse for the gauges together and then put a slightly bigger fuse in #27?

Would that work?

You need a fuse in #27.
Not sure what gauges you're using but mine daisy chained together so I didn't need to route them all back to the connector.

If you're using gauges with inline fuses you can use something much bigger to activate the connector.
Remember that if you connect them in series the current is the same across the circuit so your inline fuses will need to be able to cope, so I'd suggest connecting them in parallel with something slightly larger than the sum of them in #27.

 

[tdan7260]

My plan was to connect one wire to the option connector, then connect that wire to a fused junction/distribution block and then connect each gauge off that.

I am using Autometer gauges, 5 of them, just for fun

My other concern is for the lighting of the gauges. How would the fuse in #27 work with that?

 

[Syx]

My plan was to connect one wire to the option connector, then connect that wire to a fused junction/distribution block and then connect each gauge off that.

I am using Autometer gauges, 5 of them, just for fun

My other concern is for the lighting of the gauges. How would the fuse in #27 work with that?

That will work as each of the branches will have a lower value based on the resistance of each gauge and the fuse in #27 will total that.

Not sure I understand your last question; the lighting would also be fused through #27 as long as you wire everything through the option connector.

 

[tdan7260]

That will work as each of the branches will have a lower value based on the resistance of each gauge and the fuse in #27 will total that.

Not sure I understand your last question; the lighting would also be fused through #27 as long as you wire everything through the option connector.

Yeah, that's the plan. The power for the lighting will also come off the option connector. My question was what value fuse would I put there to also calculate for the lighting being used also?

Basic calculations are:

5 gauges each with a 5Amp fuse = 30 Amps in #27
or do I chuck a 40 Amp in there to count for the lights?

 

[Syx]

You'll never need that much - despite having 5A fuses I bet those gauges draw way less current than that. I have 2 Prosport gauges with a 10A fuse, that powers the gauges, lights and electrical sensors and I think 10A is too high!

Will check the tech specs when I can get in front of a computer.

 

[Syx]

This guy has done some testing - 6 gauges and less than 1A draw!

 

[tdan7260]

This guy has done some testing - 6 gauges and less than 1A draw!

How Much Current Do My Auto Meter Gauges Draw? - YouTube

So, I guess after watching that little demonstration, I would get away with a 10Amp fuse in #27 and even that would be over kill.

Thank you so much for your help. It will make installation so much easier now knowing the option connector pins.

BTW, with reference to side lights, am I correct in assuming that this means parkers/headlights?

 

[Syx]

You are very welcome.
By sidelights I am referring to the first light setting on the stalk, before your headlights - you might know them as position lights? As soon as you have any form of headlight switched on then that connection is +12V.

 

[tdan7260]

Gold!!!

Currently in the process of making my gauge pod and also going to attempt to move the centre screen/clock display from the middle of the dash to the right of the speedo. Big work ahead for me at the moment.

Once its all done, I'll post some pictures up for all to see.

 

[Syx]

Good luck!
FYI the piece to the right of the speedo is non-removable; it's part of the moulded dash so be really sure before you go to remove it

Look forward to the pics.

 

[tdan7260]

Good luck!
FYI the piece to the right of the speedo is non-removable; it's part of the moulded dash so be really sure before you go to remove it

Look forward to the pics.

I'm not going to be so much removing bits as opposed to moulding things in. However, once its there, it wont be going anywhere.

 

[plutonio135]

I think pin top right with 1.3v could be for interior leds, as the ex includes, to light the feet zone.

 

[Syx]

I think pin top right with 1.3v could be for interior leds, as the ex includes, to light the feet zone.

1.3V is really low though, even for LEDs I'd expect a minimum of 5V? I didn't test what the reading was with the interior lights on/off which was a bit of an oversight now I think of it :facepalm:

 

[Grayfox]

1.3v could be used for a relay but then again it may not have enough juice to activate the relay.

 

[Syx]

I think I'd settle for the knowledge of what it was intended for tbh!

 

[Grayfox]

well what can 1.3v power?

LEDs?
Nope, they need about 3.3v

HFT
bluetooth may work with 1.3v but i doubt it.
the new DDR4 memory can work with this voltage.

Lets not forget the other one that has .3v and goes to .8v.
What can that power?, nothing.

 

[Syx]

well what can 1.3v power?

LEDs?
Nope, they need about 3.3v

HFT
bluetooth may work with 1.3v but i doubt it.

Lets not forget the other one that has .3v and goes to .8v.
What can that power?, nothing.

That's about where I'm at! :hmmmm2::hmmmm2:

 

[Grayfox]

Have you tried testing those with the doors closed?