Next, pictures with the Type R I bought.

 

Amazing!

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Wow! Nice work, very impressive..?

 

And finally, the conversion and mods .

 

stunning looking car you have there

 

Want a great project and an amazing car.

You deserve a huge well done for taking the journey [emoji106]

 

That was one sad looking K20, glad it's gone to a good home!

Car looks amazing mate, lovely colour, panoramic roof and 5D, lush

 

Thanks guys. I'll try to keep the car as it is for now... although I kept saying this every year )

 

Nice project mate! Looks good [emoji106]


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Top work. Not seen a k20z go into a 5door

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Thanks to all of you.

Guys I have a question regarding Tegiwa exhaust manifold. When decelerating or in high revs I have a buzzy sound like a heat shield but it isn't a heat shield, i already checked that.
The guys who made me the catback told me that is the Tegiwa manifold tube thickness which is too thin and resonate on high flow gas pressure. The options are :

1. they cand make me a custom manifold replicating the Tegiwa one (or any other manifold, I thought on Toda one) but this option is too expensive
2. to heatwrap the manifold but I know this could lead to cracks in time
3. other manifold brand ?

Anyone have this symptoms with Tegiwa ? Other brands have this issue ? Anybody heatwraped the manifold and have something to say about this ?

Any advice will be appreciated.

Thanks.

 

Great work!! Was it me that asked you about this before? I wish I could have a K20 in my 5door. 5 seats, ability to tow and goes like a Type R. Honda have missed a trick with that one lately.

 

Hi mate, maybe. I remember that someone asked me about my car some months ago but I don't remember exactly... could be you.

This is the car that Honda should have made from the beginning and I don't understand why ?? It would have sold more units and would've been a choice for many other Golf or BMW 1 series buyers at that time. They still made the same mistakes with the 9G Type R : no panoramic roof althought the 9G Civic have it, still no automatic transmission, still no 4x4... and I don't understand why, they have technology and everything they need for this. Look at my car for example, what extra costs would have been involved if they were put the K20Z4 engine on 5 door chassis ? NOTHING... is the same engine bay with very minor differences !

Why you can't tow with a Type R but you can with a 2.2 ?

 

Agreed, I'd have one.

 

Yes totally. You know I've been talking about getting a trailer for my R6 for trackdays, I can tow with my 2.2 but can't with an FN2. That's total madness, it's the same chassis *** :frown2:

 

In regards to the ex manifold mate it's definitely normal, I get it lifting off the trottle around 6-7k.

Not much can be done really but if you find a solution I'd be interested.

 

+1 for the noise I get it on lift off....more noticeable down enclosed streets

 

@musegroove and @Typersam1 think I'll try to heatwrap them first and see what it happens. I don't use the car for track days so don't think I'll have problems with cracking manifold.

I've put on the same time the manifold and FD2 pump with balancer shaft delete kit and Clockwise Motion baffled sump. Later I removed the pump because of his buzzyness and droning sound between 3800 - 4500 rpm and higher and hoped that will cure the buzzyness. But then I found that the manifold have his buzzyness (beside the pump) and now I try to found a solution for that .

Maybe next days I'll put on the sale section the FD2 pump with balancer shaft delete kit and Clockwise motion baffled sump, but first I have to see what are the costs posted and what are the Paypal fees (Paypal have something with us Romanians ) ). The pump is fine but it's not for me. I have two degrees : music and financial accountant, and I hear every sound, so the pump was irritating me on motorways... otherwise I would have kept it. I miss the power loss.

 

Wow! Great build ☺ I think it's something all us 5 doors owners wish we had

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As you can see, it can be done, you can have it .

 

Fantastic built well done:smile3:

 

Great conversion, well done

 

Awesome. How much work went into the K20 swap ? Did it need lots of additional parts or just swapping all the type r parts ?

It's a shame there's no 5 seater 5 door type R, and the new one is a four seater that wouldn't make a good daily.
One day i might seriously consider either a full race R18 conversion or a K20 swap on my 5 door.

 

Thanks mate,

Had to make new drills in front chassis arms (don't know the name in english, mechanical language ), and new welds for gearbox and engine mounts. For example the Type R has another engine mount in front of engine, which 1.8 doesn't have at all. That involved some work : welds for mount engine pipe, etc. Also, upper engine mount (the left one) has to be on 90 degrees, and is slightly crooked but that's it. It isn't an issue at all, doesn't affect it's functionality.

Other than that, just swaping all the typr r parts (electrical loom, radiators, etc... everything is different from 1.8). It is just a 5 door chassis with all type r parts , that's why if someone want to do this conversion has to have a complete donor car. Otherwise is complicated and very expensive to buy parts one by one.

 

great work chap!! [smilie=gt-happyup.:

 

Last week found out new things about Flashpro.

A month ago I took a road pothole which lead to a broken damper. In the same time I noticed that my idle was 900 rpm instead of 750 rpm as it is normal. First I thought that pothole caused a sensor fail and took the car to Honda.
Car had abnormal values :

- ECT Sensor 1 : -40 degrees Celsius / normal should be positive temp
- Fuel Injector cycle : 165,89 ms / normal should be around 2,8 – 3 ms
- Spark Advance : -64 degrees / normal should be 8 degrees
- MAP Sensor : 0 kpa / normal should be around 30 kpa
- MAF Sensor : 422,4 g/s / normal should be 2,2 g/s
- Baro Sensor : 0 kpa / normal should be around 100 kpa
- Etc... many values was so wrong that the car shouldn’t start at all

But that was so weird because the car sounded and driven as it should, beside that 900rpm on idle.
Went to Honda with my laptop and Flashpro and after 2 hours we found out that :

- On Honda tester some values was wrong, on Flashpro was fine
- Honda tester found an update for ECU. Done this with standard map obvious, and all values was back to normal
- Then I re-uploaded standard map but through Hondata... the wrong values reappeared

Conclusions :

- 900 rpm on idle was due to my custom map. That’s how it has been set. Put it on 750 rpm but then I understood why it was set to 900 rpm : throttle response was sensitive than standard and that idle set on 900 rpm helped alot. At the end I get used to throttle response and for now the idle is set to 750 rpm
- Look at ECU as to a HDD. It seems that Hondata can’t write / access some ECU sectors (or maybe doesn’t need them at all) and on Honda tester ECU showed some wrong values... but that’s the way Hondata works

After 2 weeks of worries everything is fine and new lesson learned .

 

Updates : Wavetrac LSD and Tegiwa manifold heat wrapped.

Wavetrac LSD - think is the best mod so far, even better than power mods. I have always been interested more in handling than power. No more understeer, slightly oversteer on the limit. Car is handling so well now, like a kart and more playful than before... oh and a new habit when I get in the car - VSA OFF ! It is something that I dared to do very few times in the past but now I'm so confident in the car that I do this every time. What a joy this diff.
Some weight details :

- standard open diff - 5.0 kg
- Wavetrac - 6,6 kg

Regarding heat wrapping the manifold - I'm not worried about manifold cracks, I've done this more for the lift off buzzy sound that Tegiwa manifold makes (I don't like it at all). Unfortunately the buzzy sound is still there . I thought that heat wrapping will cure this, but not.
I still have a feeling that the sound could coming from my custom cat back, intermediate box, because I also have a rattle like a heat shield touching the exhaust and I have this only when under load / accelerating between 2500 - 3000 rpm. I already checked heat shields and everything is fine so far. I will investigate this further.

 

Very nice mate :thumbsup:

Personally leave VSA on, you shouldn't be triggering it anyway unless you're trying to FWD drift lol The moment you're about to plough into a wall is the moment you wish you left VSA on

I love the diff too, doesn't come into use much on the road but on weekend bashes and track it's invaluable.

 

You are right I do this only when trash it... which is quite often after I fitted the diff . The car is so playful, would be a shame not to use it "properly" .

Besides the exhaust rattling now I've got a new problem : front seats. I adapted some CU Accord seats because I wanted the lombar and electric adjustment and final step would be to re-upholstery them, but now I don't know what to do, because I can't sit in them anymore on twisty roads . I have to decide if I keep them or try to find some FN2 Type R seats... in the end the car is a proper Type R although I have 5 doors.

 

In the end I bought Type R seats. I find them very comfortable despite the high position. Other than that maintenance and joyful moments .

Now I'm looking at my first post with "next plans" and what I haven't done yet are: KW V2 coilover (which I don't think I will do anyway because the standard suspension is fine for my needs) and "... maybe turbo" ). This last one is still on my mind and who knows... "maybe" in the future >.

Some pictures from the seaside .