[Tricky-Ricky]

Mine throws this code every now and then, apparently the valve in question is prone to internal leaks, I usually just erase the code and it often doesn't show again for a couple of months, I have noticed no odd effects nor any increase in fuel consumption, so unless I get some concrete symptoms I will leave it be, in any case at £120 + just to stop only a CEL.........

 

[fearnone]

I've got a 2007 2.2 ctdi engine management light keeps comin on and putting the car into limp mode limiting it to 70 mph I've so far , taken it for 2 diagnosis both came bak saying its the variable intake manifold or erg valve bought a second hand erg valve, engine management light still comin on taken car for another diagnosis in the morning

 

[Jon_G]

I've got a 2007 2.2 ctdi engine management light keeps comin on and putting the car into limp mode limiting it to 70 mph I've so far , taken it for 2 diagnosis both came bak saying its the variable intake manifold or erg valve bought a second hand erg valve, engine management light still comin on taken car for another diagnosis in the morning

Get them to tell you the actual error code. It might be a the EVR actuator rather than the EGR valve. Or something else altogether.

 

[Satoer]

Thanks for all this guys. My motor is throwing up the same code too. Doesn't seem to make much difference to performance but I think the MPG is suffering.
So have we decided what the problem is? Perishing hoses? Blocked fillers? Not enough fillers?
Could a clogged egr throw up this fault and code?

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Does the valve control rod (Point 2) move when revving the engine?

 

[petercumpstone]

Help with fault code

I've read with interest all that is above, my issue is I can't even locate any of these parts on my car. It is a 2008 diesel.

Can anyone point me in the right direction to to locate the intake manifold runner control - mine is stuck open and not closed, but I'm guessing similar issue.

Any help would be appreciated, so I can check to see if it moves or not?

Many thanks!

 

[civic sonnie]

It's under the engine cover. Had similar faults a few months ago and replace the IMRC and reset.

 

[petercumpstone]

Can I replace it myself and where can I get one??

 

[civic sonnie]

Can I replace it myself and where can I get one??

Of course you can! saves you a lot money, and very easy to do, when I done mine I clean the egr as well, takes me 2 hours to do everything. I bought the parts from Cox honda. Spent £ 138 half of the cost honda dealer quote.

 

[petercumpstone]

Of course you can! saves you a lot money, and very easy to do, when I done mine I clean the egr as well, takes me 2 hours to do everything. I bought the parts from Cox honda. Spent £ 138 half of the cost honda dealer quote.

It looks very complicated to change the IMRC. There appears to be a lot of vacuums and different things - is there a chance of breaking the engine?

Many thanks

 

[Jon_G]

It looks very complicated to change the IMRC. There appears to be a lot of vacuums and different things - is there a chance of breaking the engine?

Many thanks

Of course there's a chance, but if you're careful you'll be OK.

Please make sure that your problem actually IS the IMCR though, issues with it be reported as 'stuck' are often due to the vacuum actuator failing. A quick test for this is to apply suction to the IMRC to see if it is actually stuck (i.e. bypass the actuator) or swap the IMRC actuator with the turbo actuator. If the IMRC is actually stuck, then it would be worth having a go at gently freeing it up (may just need a good clean to remove accumulated gunk).

 

[ragezor]

Every few thousand kilometers or so my car cuts out during rapid acceleration. I've changed the fuel filter and the problem still persists. Last time it did that it was so severe that car went into safe mode and glow plugs light came on.

Mechanic checked the codes and told me that some valve wasn't operating properly. He described to me that this valve only directs the airflow via shorter or longer path and is nothing to be worried about and we can fix it some other time.

After doing the research I came across this thread.

Can anybody describe the procedure how to go about identifying which part is faulty and repairing it?

From my understanding it can be faulty solenoid (item number 3 on the pictures). How to test this?

There is also an air filter between 3 and 4. Can anybody describe in more detail how Satoer replaced the air filter with some part from moped? What does that air filter even do?

Then there is a part between 1 and 2. Is this the actual valve that can get cleaned or this part just moves the real valve?

Hope someone from this year old thread is still around

 

[Jon_G]

Did you fit the correct OEM (Denso) fuel filter?

Can you see the swirl valve linkage (#2) moving as the engine is revved? Is it free to move if you try by hand? What codes are you getting?

The part between #1 & #2 is a vacuum bellows that moves the linkage. Part #3 is a solenoid that allows electrical signals from the ECU to control the vacuum (generated by an engine-driven pump) to the bellows, via pipe #1. The vacuum is then relieved via the filter (top left of part #3) to allow the linkage to move back to its original position.

With the engine off, applying an external vacuum should cause the linkage to move, demonstrating that the bellows are not split and that the swirl valves are free to move (they can become coked up). If this works OK, but you still get P2004, P2006 or P2008 codes then the fault is almost certainly the Frequency Solenoid Valve (#3). But it's worth checking first that the filter isn't blocked, simply by pulling it off and then trying it.

 

[ragezor]

In my case this problem occurs very rarely, so I'm thinking air filter sometimes does not work properly or valves are dirty and jam sometimes.

I plan on changing the air filter with Satoers' solution but I don't know which part he used. I would also like to clean valves but I read on wikipedia that it's dangerous to damage the valves as they can get sucked up into the motor and destroy it. I don't know if this is the case for honda but certainly is for BMW.

 

[Jon_G]

Diesel BMWs are famous for sucking in their swirl valves, as you say. I've never heard of this happening on a Honda, but you wouldn't want to be the first, huh?

Remove the plastic engine top cover (four 10mm AF nuts, careful with the washers) and get someone to operate the accelerator pedal while you GENTLY hold rod #2 in your fingers and help it to move a few times. You should feel if it's sticking a bit, plus you should also be able to judge that the bellows are generating a reasonable force onto the rod.

Good luck!

 

[petercumpstone]

Hello,

Thought I'd bring this thread back as I have finally got round to locating the IMRC. I get an engine light frequently now, but it is still intermittent. When looking at the IMRC, I can see that the control rod number 2 moves freely, but tends to be stuck in - pulled in by the vacuum. If I undo this pipe, it returns to open. The question is, if there is suction, is the unit faulty number 3 because it is always being applied, or is it something else?

 

[Jamesoxborrow]

Hi,
To my knowledge when there is suction/vacuum the swirl valves are open. The IMRC frequency solenoid (small black box) controls the vacuum but leaks vacuum causing them to be stuck open. I have the exact same problem with mine, could pay Lings Honda £128 for a new solenoid, but ive chosen to buy a £5 bluetooth OBD2 dongle from amazon, and downloaded the Torque Pro app on my phone so i can reset it instantly as soon as the MIL (engine management light) comes on. Works like a charm, my mpg has also raised since the car does not use the swirl valves properly even if it can, if it has faulted (p2004 if i remember correctly) and the code remains on the ecu and has not been formally cleared despite the MIL turning itself off.

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[actiondefence]

Hi,
To my knowledge when there is suction/vacuum the swirl valves are open. The IMRC frequency solenoid (small black box) controls the vacuum but leaks vacuum causing them to be stuck open. I have the exact same problem with mine, could pay Lings Honda £128 for a new solenoid, but ive chosen to buy a £5 bluetooth OBD2 dongle from amazon, and downloaded the Torque Pro app on my phone so i can reset it instantly as soon as the MIL (engine management light) comes on. Works like a charm, my mpg has also raised since the car does not use the swirl valves properly even if it can, if it has faulted (p2004 if i remember correctly) and the code remains on the ecu and has not been formally cleared despite the MIL turning itself off.

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Same here for me except I've not noticed an improvement in mpg, although I've also not noticed any detrimental effect of it.

 

[Jamesoxborrow]

I think generally there is no noticeable effect when drivibg and a slight reduction in mpg, if u have got an improvement then nice one! However, the swirl system is there to improve performance by opening the swirl valves at mid-high rpm, allowing unidirectional air into the cylinder to create a vortex inside so the air and diesel mix better pre ignition, in fact the cylinder heads are shaped on the top concavelly specifically for this reason. When the valves stay open, the ecu is not expecting this hence does not compensate the air/fuel ratio at lower rpm hence normally reducing mpg.

I would go with the £5 OBD2 bluetooth over the new solenoid tho, they are considering making fault codes/MIL issues a MOT fail so some form of resolution would be a good idea.

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