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DPF follow-up with Honda HDS software

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#142 ·
Nino2012 said:
For taking the DPF down i mean
Click to expand...
You need to take the under body cover off, remove the cat sensor (google cat socket to remove it), then the heat shield (3 or 4 bolts), Disconnect the DPF sensor pipes, You have three bolts connecting dpf on the turbo and three connecting to the exhaust. Get these off and lift the dpt up. The hardest was loosing the bolts on the top of the dpf connecting it to the turbo but I had a decent air gun which helped. Back wash it, leave it over night to drain or if you have an air compressor push air through it. Also during wash screw a bolt in where the cat sensor was and tape over dpf pipe as water will come out. Refit the next day and it will dry out after 10 minutes driving,
 
#143 ·
canman said:
You need to take the under body cover off, remove the cat sensor (google cat socket to remove it), then the heat shield (3 or 4 bolts), Disconnect the DPF sensor pipes, You have three bolts connecting dpf on the turbo and three connecting to the exhaust. Get these off and lift the dpt up. The hardest was loosing the bolts on the top of the dpf connecting it to the turbo but I had a decent air gun which helped. Back wash it, leave it over night to drain or if you have an air compressor push air through it. Also during wash screw a bolt in where the cat sensor was and tape over dpf pipe as water will come out. Refit the next day and it will dry out after 10 minutes driving,
Click to expand...
I took the dpf out and it is currently being backflushed with a hose. Oddly, it looks quite clean. At first some white ash was coming out but now its only clean water. Do i need to set it as a "new" dpf in the ecu?
 
#144 ·
Just an update. After backflushing the dpf for 3 hours a lot of white/red/black particles came out. I didnt take off the pressure sensor or the temperature sensor. I left it to dry overnight with a dehumidifier blowing over it. Today i placed it back on the engine and no errors appeared. We shall se if the dpf! sign will appear again after 8g of soot.
 
#145 ·
ok. You do need a decent flow of water. I had a two inch wash down hose pumped so a decent flow through it. At the top of dpf there was a fair flow of water coming out. Its the volume of water you need to get through it rather than pressure. I didn't reset it to a new dpf. I just fitted and started the car up and went easy for the first ten minutes to push all the water out/dry out
 
#147 ·
Nino2012 said:
Just a follow-up.

I am currently at 1100km since the dpf wash with 9g of pm. No sign of the dpf! yet. Fingers crossed!
Click to expand...
Ok that would be in line with mine. I get around 1200 KM before a regen so you should achieve this and get it back to working order.

I have flushed mine each year for the last three years now since the first DPF issue I got.
 
#148 ·
canman said:
Ok that would be in line with mine. I get around 1200 KM before a regen so you should achieve this and get it back to working order.

I have flushed mine each year for the last three years now since the first DPF issue I got.
Click to expand...
You are right. It did a self-regen at around 1200km and no issues since. So flushing the dpf is certainly the way to go when the dpf! symbols shows its ugly face.
 
#150 · (Edited)
Hi everyone, here my experience with my DPF forced regeneration:

Situation
CR-V 2.2 i-dtec 150 from 2010, 325000 km (202000 miles)
It all started last year at 295000 km (185000 miles) when the car went on limp mode with the DPF! warning displayed
311426

Long story short, it messed up my mountain driving joy and it was sometimes dangerous to not have enough power.
Went to honda garage, did one forced regen for 220€. Few km after (~700km) it reappeared
311426

Went back honda garage, they told me the DPF had to be changed for about 1500€
Went to another honda garage, did one forced regen for 160€.
It had been holding for 12months, until this month (first week of january 2020)
311426


How I did the regen myself
I had enough spending a lot of money for those regen so I researched how to do it.
1- Bought the magic cable : look for "XHORSE HDS Cable For Honda Diagnostic" on aliexpress
2- Installed Win XP on a virtual machine
3- Installed : the HDS 3.101.015 (thanks everyone for the instructions and joooe for the software!); the HIMGNA.exe app ; the cable software MVCI Driver for HONDA 1.4.3.msi (it comes with the cable on a mini CD)
4- Turned on the car key (position II) and Launched StartHDS
What I got was a pretty nice clogged DPF (23,7g) :
311428

5- Bought JLM DPF Particulate Filter Cleaner J02220, 375 ml AND that JLM Diesel DPF Cleaner J02210, 400 ml
6- Added the additive J02210 in the fuel tank, fueled up the car
7- Added the DPF cleaner J02220 inside the DPF through this
311430

The spray was sold with a long tube (~70cm) I sprayed the whole bottle.
I could put the tube very deep, went up and down. It's crazy how deep it can dive in
311431


8- Ready for regen ! Go to DIESEL and tool, you'll find there the regen command
311429
read carefully all the instructions of the software, safety first.
9- Regen lasted approx 25min, huuuuge smoke went out at the begining. The regen finished weirdly with a message saying it didn't go through.
10- Quit everything, unplugged the cable, turn of the car, unplugged the batterie for 5 min
11- Replugged the battery, started the car, error message gone, yeepee.
12- Reppluged the HDS
311432


Result
From limp mode
311426
with DPF charged with 23,7g to no warnings with 0.6g, car back to normal.

That's it folks, good luck if you start a forced regen project :)
 
#152 ·
yekluk said:
Hi everyone, here my experience with my DPF forced regeneration:

Situation
CR-V 2.2 i-dtec 150 from 2010, 325000 km (202000 miles)
It all started last year at 295000 km (185000 miles) when the car went on limp mode with the DPF! warning displayed View attachment 311426
Long story short, it messed up my mountain driving joy and it was sometimes dangerous to not have enough power.
Went to honda garage, did one forced regen for 220€. Few km after (~700km) it reappeared View attachment 311426
Went back honda garage, they told me the DPF had to be changed for about 1500€
Went to another honda garage, did one forced regen for 160€.
It had been holding for 12months, until this month (first week of january 2020) View attachment 311426

How I did the regen myself
I had enough spending a lot of money for those regen so I researched how to do it.
1- Bought the magic cable : look for "XHORSE HDS Cable For Honda Diagnostic" on aliexpress
2- Installed Win XP on a virtual machine
3- Installed : the HDS 3.101.015 (thanks everyone for the instructions and joooe for the software!); the HIMGNA.exe app ; the cable software MVCI Driver for HONDA 1.4.3.msi (it comes with the cable on a mini CD)
4- Turned on the car key (position II) and Launched StartHDS
What I got was a pretty nice clogged DPF (23,7g) :
View attachment 311428
5- Bought JLM DPF Particulate Filter Cleaner J02220, 375 ml AND that JLM Diesel DPF Cleaner J02210, 400 ml
6- Added the additive J02210 in the fuel tank, fueled up the car
7- Added the DPF cleaner J02220 inside the DPF through this View attachment 311430
The spray was sold with a long tube (~70cm) I sprayed the whole bottle.
I could put the tube very deep, went up and down. It's crazy how deep it can dive in View attachment 311431

8- Ready for regen ! Go to DIESEL and tool, you'll find there the regen command View attachment 311429 read carefully all the instructions of the software, safety first.
9- Regen lasted approx 25min, huuuuge smoke went out at the begining. The regen finished weirdly with a message saying it didn't go through.
10- Quit everything, unplugged the cable, turn of the car, unplugged the batterie for 5 min
11- Replugged the battery, started the car, error message gone, yeepee.
12- Reppluged the HDS View attachment 311432

Result
From limp mode View attachment 311426 with DPF charged with 23,7g to no warnings with 0.6g, car back to normal.

That's it folks, good luck if you start a forced regen project :)
Click to expand...
Nice write up. I would take it out and do a back flush. At the end of the day, ash builds up inside the filter so you need to remove this. I don't like these forced regen as I got one done in the Honda garage and the oil went seriously black after it. They are hard on the engine as well
 
#155 ·
Hi guys. Does anyone know the max dpf differential pressure (kpa) for the 2.2 engine? For me it shows 0.3 kpa at idle and max 20 kpa when i floor it in 3rd gear up to the red line when driving. Do we have some numbers to compare the pressures?
 
#157 · (Edited)
Hi guys,
I am from Romania, having a CRV 1.6 I dtec, with 115k.km on board.
Last week I took out the DPF for cleaning (just for fun, until now no DPF errors/warnings on board).
Having the chinese HDS, I sow the automatic regen of the DPF occurs between 350km and more than 850km(last one)
Taking off the DPF is not big deal if your are strong enough and have the appropriate tools, so go on! It is not hard, is a 1 h work for dismounting.
You ll need only few wrench, 12 mm, 14 mm, another bigger one but I don t remember the size now
,some WD40 or similar.
Putting back is harder but not so difficult.
Pay attention to the metallic gaskets located at turbo connection! It is very easy to damage it when taking off.

Anyway, I flushed just with water, let it overnight and flush it again, then 2 hours of drying. It was not so much ash or dirty as I expected to be.
So I put it back and measure the diff pressure which was 10kpa on idle, and I suppose this is a big value.
I suppose water is not enough to clean it so probably during next days I will take it out again and flush with NaOH (first step) and HCl(second step).
 

Attachments

#158 ·
There is a very very useful video with a guy having a BMW, is trying different cleaning chemicals, and definitely the NaOH is one of the best cleaning solution having no effects over the DPF/cat structure.
Also the second step is flushing with HCl but in this case pay attention of the concentration as this one is reacting with the case of the DPF.
The commercial DPF off cleaning solutions seems to be only strong detergents and nothing more...
 
#159 · (Edited)
Hi
It s me again, this time after re dismounting and re clean the DPF with Na OH and Hcl solutions. Well, after cleaning with these solutions( about 4 h in total, 1h take off and on the DPF), things are now completely different:
As I dried the DPF using only a hobby heater, after cca 20 min of running the engine on the road (rpm no more than 2400), check engine error appeared on board, and the engine had limited power.
Back at home, using the HDS I found the DTC which was generated by the sensor2 of DPF, something related to the temp. Probably the water still inside was the cause.
Any way, the diff pressure is now 0 (null!) at idle so I am very happy.
I did nor run the car after cleared the DTC, but I am sure next time everything will be OK. Keep you posted
 

Attachments

#160 ·
Laurentiu said:
Hope
It s me again, this time after re dismounting and re clean the DPF with Na OH and Hcl solutions. Well, after cleaning with these solutions( about 4 h in total, 1h take off and on the DPF), things are now completely different:
As I dried the DPF using only a hobby heater, after cca 20 min of running the engine on the road (rpm no more than 2400), check engine error appeared on board, and the engine had limited power.
Back at home, using the HDS I found the DTC which was generated by the sensor2 of DPF, something related to the temp. Probably the water still inside was the cause.
Any way, the diff pressure is now 0 (null!) at idle so I am very happy.
I did nor run the car after cleared the DTC, but I am sure next time everything will be OK. Keep you posted
Click to expand...
Ok thats what I did, run the car for a good 10 - 15 minutes on the road to burn off the excess water. I never got any error in the few times I have done this. It was around 10KPA at idle with the water after refitting but dropped down once dry to under 1KPA. I leave the dpf overnight to drain any additional water out so I don't fit straight away. It is never fully dry unless you can push air through it.

Great job tbh to keep it in working order
 
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