I know what you mean, I had a 1.8 as a courtesy car for a few days, and it took a day to get used to it, it felt really slow, as I was so used to the diesel torque.

But once I was used to it again, it was really quite a nippy car!

 

Ye that exactly just had a c2 vts diesel which on paper is slower but has the turbo right from low revs so initially felt faster, just need to get used to keeping the rev's up. I'm assuming i wont do any damage as long as im not constantly over 6k?

 

You can rev it all you like (once the engine is warm)
...

 

stay above 4k in the rev range and you stay out of eco/slow mode and thats the real speed of the car

 

The more you rev it, the more fun you'll have

 

change up when you see 6 orange lights its what i do !!

 

great, thanks guys. only had it one day and not gone over 4k yet lol. Then again only driven it with the wife in the car so far... lol. Thanks for the info i'll get playing!

 

You can drive with the window down and it doesn't sound like you're being followed by a tractor....

:worms:

 

Spot on!

 

under 4k is eco mode on the vtec so if you want mpg stay under if you want performance which over 4k normal vtec mode then thats how to drive

 

lol.

I'm a fan of both to be honest. been with a turbo diesel for awhile, and just dont do the miles to spend the extra cash at mo so thought i'd give the petrol a chance and am quite enjoying it too

Now i need to look into getting a aux / usb in fitted :S

 

... actually I was wondering if there was a way I could "force" vtec pretty much all the time... so I can have oomph when I want...

Other than that... perhaps changing the rev limit to around 9k will do...? lol

Or perhaps I need to buy one of those old s600's so I can satisfy my rev hungry appetite (anyone for a safe 12k?!)

 

The Eco mode only engages under specific circumstances - light throttle application, constant cruising speed and revs between 1500 & 3000. If you use any more than a light throttle opening the engine will switch into 'normal' mode automatically as the ecu senses you need more power than eco mode can give.

So, if you drive with a heavy right foot you will pretty much always be in normal mode rather than eco.

The vtec in the 1.8 is designed more for economy than power, although it can do both.

 

sadly its not possible to do any of the above, from what i know its to complex to change the rev limit from 7k to anything higher and the engine is made it such a way that you cant change from eco mode

 

Just trash the thing the 1.8 is at its best in the high revs!
In the low revs the car sometimes doesnt know if it wants eco mode or not :facepalm:

 

olice: True - try setting the cruise at 60mph and see what happens.......

 

Cheers guys i'm becoming a happy rev'er

 

tbh i have always wondered what keeps the car at 7krpm and what ever it is why cant you change it to say 8k would it destroy the engine ?

 

Someone on the forum had their 1.8 chiptuned, think it has a raised rpm redline of 7200 rpm.
The US variant of our engine (R18A1) has more manufacturers working to get more out of the engine block and i've seen rpm's up to 8000 if i recall correctly.
So it wouldnt destroy the engine block but i dont know the effect on the long term. Higher rpm will mean more wear on the engine so it will probably reduce the life of the engine but by how much?
I'm still seriously considering to slam a few bits to the car, invidia catback exhaust and cai intake. Quiet a lot of tuning companies in belgium and the netherlands are claiming a chiptuning which ups the power by 12 tot 17 bhp and a raise in torque of 25 Nm. I'm interested to see the gains with the mods (an extra 5 bhp would be nice) but i need a company who'll do a before and after dyno to prove the gains first...
I already contacted a firm a while back and never heard back once i started about proving the gains on a rolling road...

 

A mass that accellereates and decellarates palces massive load on the material.
Thats why people start using steel crankshafts etc.
Weaker materials will just strech, buckle and tear apart.
You'll be picking up the engine parts.

Beleive it or not... thats why you have a rev limiter to keep the engine at a safe rpm below the critical failure point.

Doesnt stop you sticking it in 1st at 100mph...this will just lunch the engine for the same reasons

 

Normally there's some safety over the set rev limit (which is why some remaps can move rev limits higher than stock) BUT

Every part has different internal flaws, and the rev limit will be set so that most engines* don't fail. The second aspect is fatigue limits - these are areas where the force on a part won't cause it to immediately fail, but continued cycling in this mild 'overload' area will lead to catastrophic failure eventually. See DeHavilland Comet.

The third area is the ultimate strength a component has, that's basic the limit where any example will instantly fail, so yes, 1st gear at 100mph fits into this!

* of the same type

 

I know this thread is about the 1.8 but this is my dyno graph for my Type R. The standard redline is 8,200 rpm but when it was remapped it was raised to 8,600 rpm.

If you look at the graph the peak is 7,877 rpm, and then it starts to go down, so higher rpm does not necessarily mean higher BHP.

(Note this isn't standard vs mapped, it was a remap :thumbsup

 

have you considered the alternatives? how about less weight better brakes better suspension? having a fast car isnt all about bhp after all! some lightweight wheels, camber bolts with a FRS, braided hoses, better discs and pads and brake fluid will make a great difference to the car without having to chase bhp figures

 

+1... moer than one way to skin a cat.

10% off weight and unsprung weight will improve cornering/braking/acceleration by 10%.

A 10% power increase will just increase acceleration.

 

Then its going to be little bits at great expense..
Camshafts, Head work, strengthening.
Then proper induction and exhaust kits + remap.
How much you gain over hondas work.. will probably be very little.

Water injection, Nitrous, Turbo or Rotrex will have to be the only other options.

None of this is gong to be cheap and you have to start asking yourself if it will be cheaper and easier to just get a type R ???
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/d...display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=10&TopicID=12978&PageMsg=Viewing+Common+Topic
http://www.cimotorsports.net/motor-...motor-sport-products/crower-cams-stage-2-street-strip-acura-integra-b18a-b.html
..you'll have to search amercian forums for best advice on the b18 work.

Your gonna need to bug hondaat like hell as well to get proper control of the ECU settings to match.

 

Then its going to be little bits at great expense..
Camshafts, Head work, strengthening. Then proper induction and exhaust kits + remap. How much you gain over hondas work.. will probably be very little. Water injection, Nitrous, Turbo or Rotrex will have to be the only other options. None of this is gong to be cheap and you have to start asking yourself if it will be cheaper and easier to just get a type R ??? .......

From what I've gathered from USA sites, the 1.8 is quite a strong engine "ex-works" and can easily handle \ generate (say) 25\35 bhp more, with just a smallish supercharger and perhaps some ECU work ...

Type-R ? - no rear doors ! - and, then there is the 'uniqueness' that Woette mentioned ...

We'll just keep looking ! ...

 

All I want (for Chrimbo, lol) is a little more low down torque.. I don't really need 300bhp at the front wheels ... it'd ruin my new bridgestones .... but I do want to make the car more driver friendly....

.... I'd also like it to stop lurching at low speeds... dammit, people think I can't drive the thing!!!!!!

 

All I want (for Chrimbo, lol) is a little more low down torque.. I don't really need 300bhp at the front wheels ... it'd ruin my new bridgestones .... but I do want to make the car more driver friendly ... I'd also like it to stop lurching at low speeds... dammit, people think I can't drive the thing!!!!!!

Easiest \ cheapest fix ? - progressive springs - e.g. Eibach ...

 

If you have someone to test and do some R&D.
As I guarantee this is pulse tuned and may lose lots of midrange power.

The first thing I'd do is lose the resonator box diagram.
Lose everything from the Airbox diagram except MAF and Item 10 '45 bend'
Make a MAF tube to mimic that in the airbox, with cone airfilter boss.
So that it mates to item 10.

But thats me and Id need to see engine pics with dimensions to see what fits.

This is pretty much what I am attempting with the 2.2 for an SRI.
Space is considerably limited with the 2.2 but am unfamiliar with the 1.8.

Exhaust is another story

B1-5
2007 HONDA CIVIC 1.8 TYPE S RESONATOR CHAMBER (1.8L) - Honda Original Parts from Lings Honda v1.01

B1-0
2007 HONDA CIVIC 1.8 TYPE S AIR CLEANER (1.8L) - Honda Original Parts from Lings Honda v1.01

E1-0
2007 HONDA CIVIC 1.8 TYPE S THROTTLE BODY (1.8L) - Honda Original Parts from Lings Honda v1.01

E3-0
2007 HONDA CIVIC 1.8 TYPE S INTAKE MANIFOLD (1.8L) - Honda Original Parts from Lings Honda v1.01

69-1013TS - K&N 69 Series Typhoon Kits, Performance Intake Kit
57-0668 - K&N 57i Series Kits, Performance Intake Kit I'd use a differnet filter with this


http://www.civinfo.com/forum/engines-transmission/25598-type-s-1-8-induction-kit.html

 

I'll be starting to look into it all after winter, probably around april.

I have quiet some things i would want to do to it.

Eibach springs, koni shocks, invidia exhaust, cai intake, lighter wheels(costly probably), wheel spacers (worth it?), new discs (not sure on type but probably aftermarket) and ferodo ds2500 pads

What i've read on the internet is that flaspro now also supports the R18 engine spec so i assume this will help in tuning the engine, but i'm not an expert on the whole matter nor do i crave the ultimate power.
Its been said, a bit more grunt in the low revs would be great, an engine tune on a N/A engine normally results in more gains in the low to mid revs so exactly what i'm searching for.
And on the "buy a type-r instead"-mather, i would be bankrupt due to the insurance and petrol cost... not to mention the extra purchase cost.
I've always adored my 1.8 despite its hick ups but lately its wearing a bit off so its time for a make over.
i'll probaly start a new thread when my 'project' is finalized and parts have been ordered so others can follow the progress or even aid in some decisions.

 

I'll be starting to look into it all after winter, probably around April. I have quiet some things i would want to do to it. Eibach springs, koni shocks, invidia exhaust, cai intake, lighter wheels(costly probably), wheel spacers (worth it?), new discs (not sure on type but probably aftermarket) and ferodo ds2500 pads. What i've read on the internet is that flaspro now also supports the R18 engine spec so i assume this will help in tuning the engine, but i'm not an expert on the whole matter nor do i crave the ultimate power. It's been said, a bit more grunt in the low revs would be great, an engine tune on a N/A engine normally results in more gains in the low to mid revs so exactly what i'm searching for. And on the "buy a type-r instead"-mather, I would be bankrupt due to the insurance and petrol cost... not to mention the extra purchase cost. I've always adored my 1.8 despite its hick-ups but lately it's wearing a bit off so its time for a make over. I'll probably start a new thread when my 'project' is finalised and parts have been ordered so others can follow the progress or even aid in some decisions.

Keep us (me) posted, in advance ! - I'm especially with you on the Type-R costs - here, I'd have to pay around £50,000 new, + much higher Insurance and Fuel costs (all about +50% more than a 1.8 !) ...

I'm now happy with the suspension and brake upgrades, and the "cosmetic \ twiddly bits" (although colour-coding is tempting) ...

As the car is basically flawless, and it is unique, and has low mileage, I'll be keeping it for a few more years - so, time for a few more horses ...

 

I had a look into the various running costs of the Type-S and Type-R and didn't find them to be massively different.

In buying the car the difference was minimal (less than £1000 for equivalent age/spec/mileage). And yeah, insurance is more money, as is petrol/tax. Around £1000 /year more than the Type-S by my calculations (based on ~14k miles). Depends if that puts you off.

However, I can see that upgrading to the Type-R might be more expensive since you have to factor in the fact that the dealers will give you a far lower price for your Type-S.