Well the first obvious question Is, is the radio still working?

 

Oh sorry thought I covered it in my post.
The radio do NOT work or at least I cant make it to work. Therefore my question, should it work with the "common clock display issue"?

 

Ah right, I was confused, I though you meant the display for the radio didn't work as opposed to the radio wasn't working.

So have you checked the fuses?

 

Yes, I have checked them. Think there are 2 under the bonnet and 1 under dash (or the other way around). I'll check it one more time properly when I get back home.

I assumed if the dash "Display Clock" stops showing the info (and just needs the pins re-soldering) the radio should still work. Tried to find an existing answer to this on the forums but failed. Logically thinking if the radio failed... the dash display should still show clock and AC temp value.

The easiest and the logical solution would be if it's just the blown fuse (which took both radio and the display clock). I never thought not having a functioning radio is going to be such PITA on a daily driver.

 

Ok so this gets weird now...

Just few mins ago, on my lunch, I've opened the bonnet and pulled the 7.5 fuse circled on the picture, which I think is the accessory/radio. Also, did the same for the one below (15).

Both looked fine to me but I also used the multimeter (in the "beep" mode) to check if all is well. It was, so I put them back. Then went with the multimeter and checked every fuse in this picture (without pulling them) - as I've realised it's possible to check fuses without removing them! They all "beeped" fine.
Then, moved to under dash fuse box and checked fuse no35 and it also beeped fine.

Turned the keys in the ignition to check if I have not messed anything up and now both my radio and clock display works just fine! Wow... I'm not sure what happened there and how things got magically fixed by me not replacing anything but will take it as a win.

 

My o/s high beam goes off and back on with the switch still on. What fuse controls this part?😉

 

Happy days!
Maybe the fuse had worked loose or got a bit of crud weakened the contact.

 

Its possible for the metal to get a light dull corrosion on them, even if the fuse shows continuity using the multimeter over the top of them in situ. Possible that by removing them and refitting the they have scored a new mating surface into the fuse.

 

I have a York rowing machine. The screen has been gradually fading until it was no longer readable. I tried to get a replacement, but the best I was offered was a replacement machine, which would cost me around A$750. I applied your techniques, and it now works like new.



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