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Upgrading Civic Speakers

50K views 17 replies 7 participants last post by  andy l  
#1 ·
Upgrading Civic Speakers,

Need some advice on upgrading the speakers, is it as simple as removing the door cards un-clipping the standard speakers and refitting the new ones, clipping the wires on and off from the original head unit or do you have to fit an amp.

Can someone clear this up for you ?

Ideally with some nice and easy speakers that have more bass and ideally louder ? That are simple to fit.

Thanks in advance.
 
#4 ·
If you find speakers that are easily driven you can get away with the original HU, but some speakers demand more power. So make sure you choose speakers depending on if you are going for an amp or not.

If you want a lot louder then I would say you want an amp.
 
#5 ·
The speaker upgrades are pants aswell, you need a sub
 
#10 ·
Forgive me if im wrong but, if I but if I buy such as 100w speakers and they quiet, then they do need amping that's more cost. I want the best results as cheap as possible. And as simple as possible, if some one said go buy 4 JVC model number 45xc they are great and a simple swap that's what id do.....

Im lost, completely.

Help..........
 
#12 ·
I'm no audio buff, but have in the past spent decent money on speakers and audio kit for car and house, and know you prob need some direction in what you are wanting.....[smilie=confuzzled.:

From what I've learned......all speakers have an efficiency rating and buying hifi speakers with a higher efficiency rating will mean less powerful amps can drive them easier but if you end up buying a speaker with a low efficiency rating and you'll need some real grunt (i.e. serious amp) to move the cones with any real firm control......otherwise yoiu'll end up with a crappy wallowing bloated sound.[smilie=romanjury.g:

With the Civic cabin letting in so much road \ tyre noise I don't think it's worth spending much to be honest. I opted for the Honda speaker updgrade option (as was offerred this for next to nought as part of my purchase) and reckon the sound is OK.......nothing great but does fine and marginally better than the bog standard speaker option.

If you want LOUD [smilie=happydance.:...and not sure what you mean exactly :confused: other than having more low end oomph from the cones... then your best speaking to an auto audio shop guy as amps \ speakers combos might give you what you want in conjinction with sound dampening options....


I spent money years back in putting in a pricey head unit, speakers, sub and cabling in an astra and it sounded great if sitting in the driveway or movving at 30mph.....but start driving above 40mph and noises on the move made the expenditure kinda pointless as the majority of the clarity of sound wa soon inaudible once road \ tyre noise got up.......I'm sure others will disagree but that's my experience....unless your gonna sound proof the whole of the vehicle.

If you were driving an Audi A4 with such a quiet cabin....then spend spend spend, but I just don't see the point in the Civic...and believe it or not I lurv my car! [smilie=grinz.gif]

Just think road noise in this model is higher than it should be! :(

Good luck in your upgrade........
 
#14 ·
Ha !! Unbelievable........

Whoever did to any car that must be bonkers [smilie=graytard.gi:


Unless it's a mobile speaker shop of course [smilie=giggle.gif][smilie=giggle.gif]
 
#17 ·
hi regards to your question,
I've just upgraded my stereo and it now sounds fab
I installed an alpine 4x40 watt amp in the boot (where the spare wheel goes)
In the rear i've fitted audiobahn 17cm co axials and in the front i've fitted 16 cm infinity components.
The front speakers sound good but the rears are amazing loads of bass.
I also covered the outside skins of the car with dynamat which I think helps.
to fit both sets of speakers I made up some spacers using 18mm wood from wickes ( very easy just remove the old speakers and use them as a template)
Make sure if you fit an amp its got high level inputs so yoy can run off the cars speaker output
The hardest part of doing this was running the battery feed for the amp through the bulkhead (between the passenger compartment an the engine bay) but i found a grommit above and to the left of the clutch pedal but it was still a pig to do, i spent an hour just doing this.
I also cheated a bit and please don't slag me off but instead of running new speaker wires through the front door cable boot i just connected my new cables to the ones already there.
as i cut the amp inputs from the same place i thought why not ( behind the front kick plates )
if this makes no sense at some point in the next couple of weeks i'll do a how to on this
I wouldn't bother fitting new speakers without an amp because when you see the factory fit speakers you'll have some idea about how low powered the head unit must be.
If you need more help give me a shout
andy.
 
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#18 ·
hi andy again,
forgot to say don't even think about changing the head unit
the immobiliser of the car runs through the head unit so if you change the head unit you still have to have the old unit connected to the car or it won't start.
Its a pig to change the head unit and most car audio centres won't touch it as you have to take all the centre consol out
Finally if you fit an aftermarket head unit some dirty stinking drug addict will only put a brick through your window and nick it