Welcome to the forum.

The 1.8 would probably be better suited to city driving, and with just 7k miles pa, wouldn't cost much more in fuel. However, given the big difference in price, and the unknown history of the petrol, I think that the 2.2, especially if the clutch and DMF have already been replaced, would be the more sensible long-term option.

Good luck...keep us posted !

 

agree with him above

really need to be doing 10k+ miles a year with longer journeys to make diesel #1.

 

The 2.2D in my eyes has far better fuel consumption than the petrol version so it would be a no brainer. 👍

 

Lots of people like their 2.2 diesels.
However they are not Euro 6 emissions compliant so are not free of charge to drive in ULEZ and CAZ clean air zones in the UK. So I’d check that in your country too.

 

There's a method in my madness, my missus is constantly pestering me to visit Edinburgh, I told her my car isn't allowed in because of the emissions. She hasn't thought about going on the train! 🤣🤣🤣

 

Hopefully there'll be no ULEZ type ******** in his country. The UK has lost it's sanity recently. The masterplan is most definitely working....

2.2 diesel for my. Why? 226k miles on mine says why and still pulls as well as when I bought it 12 years ago on 76k miles.

 

I totally concur with @hondacivicnut, on ALL points.

Heard that there's a global shortage of rainbow wigs, red noses, and ridiculously oversized shoes as folk look to blend in with the 'New Normal' clown world...

 

I believe all my managers have cornered the market! 🤣🤣🤣

 

imported from where? if from uk: Check the MOT history of a vehicle enter reg no, will be able to find out some critical mot details

cant comment on 1.8 i-vtec, but i enjoy driving 2.2 i-ctdi 2006

 

I'd have another 2.2 diesel any day. Mine is on 158k miles and drives really well.

If the diesel has already had the clutch and flywheel replaced then that's a big bonus. Check the clutch pedal as its very common for them to be squeeky.

As long as the 2.2 is serviced regularly and looked after, it'll last. Plus you have all that torque and even more if you decide to remap it

 

I'd definitely go for the petrol, your driving is not suited for a diesel at all IMHO.
Very, very unlikely to be any issue with the timing chain on the petrol - they last forever for almost everyone. If the petrol has been serviced as scheduled there will be loads of miles left in it

 

@MrHicks I see what you're saying and I'd generally agree to that however, no such timing chain issues on the 2.2 or DPF to get blocked. And if you're wanting something that will do town and motorway, the 2.2 is your man for that as it has plenty of torque just where you want it and is silent on the motorway.

 

i had my 2.2 for around 9 years no clutch trouble at all i covered over 140,000 in it
think it was around 186,000 on clock when i sold it never used oil untill it was overdue a change then used a little till i changed it and ok again
the engine is unreal pulls like a train in any gear
i test drove 1,8 petrol and 1.6 dtec in 9g even though the 1,6 diesel is disappointing compared to the 2.2 i still picked it over the 1.8 but each to there own i just prefer the way the diesels drive you have to rev the 1.8 a lot to get any power
i also ride bikes and dont think you should have to drive a car high in the rev range to get any power out of them
if you change the oil regular you shoudnt get any timing chain issues
id say biggest thing to look out for on a 8g is rust now
back axles are starting to crack and some others are reporting rust issues

 

There's a method in my madness, my missus is constantly pestering me to visit Edinburgh, I told her my car isn't allowed in because of the emissions. She hasn't thought about going on the train! 🤣🤣🤣

In a whispering voice...you better not let on then that enforcement of Edinburgh's LEZ doesn't start until 1 June 2024, and that you could drop the Hoggmobile off at any one of 12 tram stations between the airport and the zone...🤫🤭

 

🤫🤫🤫🫢😝

 

I absolutely love my 2.2 and I do mainly short trips to work and back. Literally 8 miles round trip each day. I do around 6k miles a year.
And the odd motorway run to clear it all out and get it up to temp properly. No issues other than the usual wear and tear and maintenance.

 

@Ish's Civic, stealth grill ?

Front bumper with ribbing is unfamiliar...

FMIC looks good...

What's your current map, and clutch ?

 

Hi buddy,

I used a mesh fly eye type wrap and wrapped the silver bits on the front grill and painted the silver Honda badge in black.
Wanted it to look more mean and aggressive.

The front bumper has 'speed holes' cut out.
Literally using a hole saw and cutting holes in the bumper. Then painted the slam panel behind the bumper the same as my type R calipers. Also to go with the green fog light theme.

Thank you, the FMIC made a big performance difference when I installed it.

Currently running a Celtic tuning stage 1 map. Full custom stainless exhaust from turbo back dual exit. FMIC. Induction kit. EGR delete and blanking plate.
I'm going to have it on the dyno next week to see exactly what power it's running and will update.

As for the clutch and flywheel both stock replaced about 2 years ago as the original was worn. Still holds well with all the death I give it. Tempted to go for a stage 2 remap start of next year eventhough the car has 158k miles on the clock lol

 

@MrHicks I see what you're saying and I'd generally agree to that however, no such timing chain issues on the 2.2 or DPF to get blocked. And if you're wanting something that will do town and motorway, the 2.2 is your man for that as it has plenty of torque just where you want it and is silent on the motorway.

I agree - a non DPF derv would be much less of an issue
There isn't a timing chain problem on the petrols tho - don't know where that misinformation has come from...
The 1.8 petrol has plenty of power, just in the higher rev range - same as all Honda NA petrols - if you drive it as designed it's plenty quick enough - but if you drive it like it like a diesel or turbo petrol you'll be disappointed.

 

I agree - a non DPF derv would be much less of an issue
There isn't a timing chain problem on the petrols tho - don't know where that misinformation has come from...
The 1.8 petrol has plenty of power, just in the higher rev range - same as all Honda NA petrols - if you drive it as designed it's plenty quick enough - but if you drive it like it like a diesel or turbo petrol you'll be disappointed.

Totally agree on the power in the higher rev range on the 1.8 petrol.
I didn’t really want to be revving so high to use the 140bhp from the 1.8 petrol. Which is why I chose the 2.2TDCI.
I test drove both 1.8 petrol and the 2.2TDCI. I loved the power delivery of the 2.2TDCI and don't regret my decision on purchasing one.

I suggest you test drive both before making the final decision. As far as I'm aware, the 1.8 petrol tax is slightly cheaper.
Have a loot at insurance quotes for both too.

 

I got rid of my BMW 120D as soon as I changed jobs and went from commuting 80 miles a day to 80 miles a week.
Actually bought a 2010 1.8 Si as replacement.

 

Find another 1.8 that's got better history maybe.

I picked the 1.8 over the 2.2d when I bought mine and I'm glad I did as I don't do that many miles plus the ULEZ nonsense would have affected me also.

More to go wrong on a diesel too but plenty here like them.

My 1.8 has been almost rock solid reliable over 3 years and 20k+ miles other than a drive shaft blowing up.

 

My 1.8 has been almost rock solid reliable over 3 years and 20k+ miles other than a drive shaft blowing up.

Not sure that, "almost rock solid reliable", and, "drive shaft blowing up", should be in the same sentence ?

May be I'm just being pedantic ?

 

The driveshaft would just as easily go on a 2.2 or FN2 as they were badly designed when new. There's a rubber grommet half way down it that can trap water which means it rusts away then snaps suddenly.

 

Is this the one ?

 

Never known the driveshafts fail on the 2.2's. There's certainly no corrosion on mine either at 226k miles. Now don't quote me on this but I'm sure they're beefed up on the diesels.

Yes there is 'more to go wrong' on the diesels but they really are a piece of kit. I honestly can't believe how mine keeps on chugging with minimal servicing. They're simply not a stressed engine.

Yes, as with the petrol, if you don't look after them properly, you'll get issues.

 

The 2.2 has the benefit of no DPF and it is an unstressed unit unlike the smaller capacity diesels around now with DPFs, needing Adblu and being very highly strung. My last job had a 1.5 3 cylinder diesel and it was dreadful. The power band was tiny and out of it the car would properly bog down as it lacked the displacement to deal with life outside of turbo.

My broken driveshaft is below:

I can only imagine water got trapped in the rubber grommet thing and rusted the shaft.

The 3rd party replacement has no such rust trap.

It's probably a relatively freak occurrence. The car was 13 years old and had done 110k at the time.

 

It's probably a relatively freak occurrence. The car was 13 years old and had done 110k at the time.

Sorry you had an issue, @Negativvv, glad you got it sorted.

Only driveshaft that's ever broken on me was in a truck, reversing into a loading bay. Horrible grinding noise, followed by a slap>slap>slap, then immediate stop as it dug in the tarmac !

Small, highly strung unit that requires regular, expensive liquid additives ? Sounds all too familiar, but has nowt to do with my car !

@Ish's Civic, not sure on the undertray. Been running mine without for quite some time without issue. Is a PITA taking it off/putting it back on, and if you're tinkering from the top and you drop summat small, drops straight to the ground...usually ! Also keeps engine temps lower with it off, and any water evaporates quicker.

Happy to be corrected if I'm wrong ?

 

Another point to make regarding drive shafts is that if you have an undertray fitted, I'm sure you'll get less corrosion. My car has had an under tray fitted from factory and only removed when necessary. My drive shafts look good so far. Had to replace the drivers side half shaft due to the outer CV joint starting to make a noise but there was no rust on that doughnut ring.

 

I removed my undertray when it started to flap around.

It isn't really that rusty under there either. It's been off the car around two years and there's no more wind noise or loss of fuel economy that I notice.

Said undertray was on the car at the time my original driveshaft broke up. Guess it doesn't protect it that much or it was just a bad part.