There's a fuel cut off switch in the drivers floor somewhere around by the pedals I think.

 

I think that this is behind the triangular panel at the end of the dash at the driver side at the car-(open the door and look side on at the dash)-if you know what I mean.

 

Hi guys,
Having a problem with the civic again. It wont start after not drivong it for 2 days.
Ive tried jump starting it from a volvo... all lights work but it wont tick over...
I purchased a battery charger which indicated the battery is fully charged.
Im out of ideas and really dont wsnt to get ripped ofd at hondas...

Someone said a push start may do it... and my boot doesnt shut properly...
Tbh ive got no clue how the boot will effect it...
All help would be most kind

Thank you

Boot not shutting wont effect starting it.

Has it been like this since you had the stage 3 map uploaded?

 

Another point, did you remove the keys from the ignition whilst connecting the jump leads?-leaving them in can do bad things to the immobiliser.

 

If the green key on the dashboard is going out it won't be the immobiliser. The cut off wouldn't stop the car turning over. Have you checked the main fuse this has been known to blow.

 

When you say tick over do you mean turn over?-they are 2 very different things..........

 

Are you trying to tell us you have a flat battery?

 

I think he already said the charger indicates a full charge

 

I dont belivee thr bttery to be dead as when i tried to charge it the charger saod the battery was fully charged. I javent checked the fuse box what fuse isit mate?
Tick over or turn over im not sure... tbh when i put the keys in and press engone start the car tries to start but fails

Does thst help

 

You could do with a volt metre when trying to start you need to check that the voltage doesn't drop below 12 if it does it could still be the battery.

 

When you're actually trying to start, the battery terminal voltage can go down to around 9v (even with a new, fully-charged battery). This is due to the battery's internal resistance multiplied by the very large current drawn by the starter motor. With any battery, maximum current is drawn when the load resistance equals the battery internal resistance, and in that scenario the battery terminal voltage would then equal exactly half the rated value.

I think A5hy simply needs to charge his battery, then find out what caused it to go flat...
...possibly something to do with the boot not shutting?
...possibly a knackered battery?
...possibly a knackered alternator?

 

Be nice if the OP gave a bit of follow up once opening a thread like this opcorn:

 

Hi guys sorry ive been so busy.
Ok the light in the boot makes sense. Never thought of that. So i bought a battery charger and the light indicated the battery was fully charged. Are you implying that could be an inaccurate reading and the battery could possibly be flat?
Despite the reading of the battery charger?

Appreciate all the help.
Wold apush start the car? And if the battery is dead why would it not start when i used jump leads?

Thanks

 

I read somewhere that push-starting a diesel was bad news.
Did you check the fuel cutoff valve? You have to remove the triangle piece of trim that's covered by the drivers door and it's a big black button that you press to reset.

Edit: If it tries to start but won't, and your battery indicator says full, and you've tried a jump... then I very much doubt that a bump will work.

 

 

a picture is worth a thousand words....

 

Just bump the bitch.

 

If its not the battery my next guess is immobilizer, usually they work after engine actually starts. I'm not sure how it works on the civic tho. I had a problem once with my previous car, there was significant moist in the car from a blocked drain and the immobilizer got wet-ish so it wasn't switching off and was killing the engine immediately after it starts (less than a second).

 

Ok folks ive fixed the problem. A new battery was needed.

I took the car to halfords whom tesred the battery for free and they couldnt get a readinf and they tried numerous times. The only one reading that appeared read 1v.
We tried a new battery and it fired up straight away. Whats more interesting is the guy who fixed the car showed me that the battery wasnt fitted correct and safely and who was the last person to touch the battery? The mechanic when my car broke last year and apparently he put a new battery in but there was no way it was a new battery.

Thanks for all your help guys

 

Ok folks ive fixed the problem. A new battery was needed.

I took the car to halfords whom tesred the battery for free and they couldnt get a readinf and they tried numerous times. The only one reading that appeared read 1v.
We tried a new battery and it fired up straight away. Whats more interesting is the guy who fixed the car showed me that the battery wasnt fitted correct and safely and who was the last person to touch the battery? The mechanic when my car broke last year and apparently he put a new battery in but there was no way it was a new battery.

Thanks for all your help guys

Are we talking about the same monkey who messed everything up?

 

Well t least it's sorted but out of interest how did you get the car to halfords when it wouldn't start??

 

+1
Good question!

Actually, I think it'll take a few days before you can be sure that the problem was actually the battery. Especially if the boot isn't closing and the light is still draining the battery.

 

Hi well i had the car towed to halfords. What an experiance that was luckily its not far.
Were talking about thr same mechanic which ill never use again. Previously he was always reliabke but clearly hear he bit off more than he cpuld chew and cudnt be honest about it.
He brokes my traction control and abs sensors. I have an egr problem now which i didnt have before. Oh the battery wasnt foxed properly the under tray of thr car wasnt either. The wrong boltd were used to put the engone casing on and now there threaded and upon my mot a mechanic showed me other fings thst errent fitd properly.

I shoukd use trust a tradesman..

Thanks guys for all thr help. Ive removed tjr boot light for now until the boot lock is fixed properly

 

Plus you need a new keyboard.


First world problems

 

Sorry its my phone and i only use civinfo on my phone

 

Did the guy in Halfords check about any consumption when everything is off? Thats the 2nd thing they are supposed to do (after making sure alternator is working) for the warranty to be valid.

 

I dont think he did to be honest. He just put the new battery in tested fitted and off i go

 

Then find a voltmeter and test it, you can ruin brand new battery as well, if there is really a leakage (from the boot or anywhere else) you do need to fix it

 

He won't listen.


Advice is wasted here, and on all his threads

 

Thanks pess i will take the car to honda and get the dealer to fix thr boot its just cash problem. U make a good point. I have the battery re tested as suggested.
Quality advice thanks for constructive comment