[Andyb01]

Cheap fix for this problem

OK so it's temporary and you will have to do it on a regular basis but I have found that a firm slap on top of the dash just above the display restores all the digits to their former glory. Can sometimes last up to a couple of weeks and worst case (cold weather) it may need a daily thrash.

Either way, costs nothing, solves the problem and makes me feel a whole heap better!

Andy

 

[Rolf]

I removed mine and just heated up and resoldered all the pins on the LCD. Problem solved. Cost nothing, only took some time and patience to remove the panels without damaging any clips.

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[BioTeq]

Just a quick tip, today ~6 months after first fixing this I had to resolder as the pins were loose again - seems that the solder doesn't stick we'll to the pcb. The, hopefully, permanent solution is to hot glue the whole thing after soldering to ensure nothing ever gets disconnected again.

 

[purekillforce]

Same issue with mine, but only on the clock. Rest is fine. Trying to get it done under 3 month dealer warranty, as it's £275 +vat +labour to replace :/

Do garages not fix things anymore??

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[sitwy]

Just a quick tip, today ~6 months after first fixing this I had to resolder as the pins were loose again - seems that the solder doesn't stick we'll to the pcb. The, hopefully, permanent solution is to hot glue the whole thing after soldering to ensure nothing ever gets disconnected again.

same as mine... I done it twice within 4 month... maybe recently the weather is too hot in AU...
I think is good idea to have a hot glue after re soldering.. but if it loosing again... is very hard to fix it then...

 

[BioTeq]

Well my problem is the lack of flux, I should have used it, I knew I should have and still i didn't, was too lazy to get some.
The issue is recurring, and since hot glueing I had to take it apart again and fix two other pins - REALLY starts to piss me off, this time I hot glued the whole damn pin line. This is the single most annoying thing on my car and I feel like I'd be much happier if I just took it out and smashed it to bits with a hammer... arghhh

PS. Temperature differential doesn't help... clearly, since mine is failing in the summer AND in the winter

Oh and this time I lost the vertical line on the last digit in the middle line of the display... but that's it - I'm not taking this little f*** out ever again, not even if it starts displaying obscene messages

 

[Rolf]

Luckily we have two electronic engineers at work and one of them fixed it. I am convinced the problem won't return.

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[Quagmire2204]

Hi, not sure if anyone can help me with this but my problem is similar to this, apart from its not that some aren't coming on, its that all of the segments have come on about half way so it makes reading what the display says quite hard. Not sure if it will be a soldering problem as its not that any aren't working, but all working too well so I feel it may be an electrical fault. Maybe a blown resistor or something but think I may have to replace it to fix. Anyone got any tips or know how much they are and best place to get them?

Thanks for any help/advice in advance. Baz

 

[Grayfox]

Just a quick tip, today ~6 months after first fixing this I had to resolder as the pins were loose again - seems that the solder doesn't stick we'll to the pcb. The, hopefully, permanent solution is to hot glue the whole thing after soldering to ensure nothing ever gets disconnected again.

same as mine... I done it twice within 4 month... maybe recently the weather is too hot in AU...
I think is good idea to have a hot glue after re soldering.. but if it loosing again... is very hard to fix it then...

If you get dry joints after re-soldering, you need to clean the area with IPA to remove contaminates, and use a god flux core solder.

Worst case you need to desolder the LCD with solder wick, clean the area and reinstall the LCD and make sure all your solder joints are shiny

 

[Rolf]

If you get dry joints after re-soldering, you need to clean the area with IPA to remove contaminates, and use a god flux core solder.

Worst case you need to desolder the LCD with solder wick, clean the area and reinstall the LCD and make sure all your solder joints are shiny

Almost got a fright! I am a beer brewer and in my vocabulary IPA is India Pale Ale.

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[NTurner]

Does anyone know if this clock issue could possibly be covered under warranty?? As it's a manufacturing fault x

 

[purekillforce]

I had a 3month warranty when i bought the car, so it was repaired under that (it covered electrical problems), but not sure if Honda would cover it themselves. Worth a try, as it's an expensive job to replace it (honda refused to resolder the points), but a garage could probably take it out and resolder it for a lot less.

 

[Noxia]

My display is totally dead, going to try suggested soldering. I presume removing the speedo is specific to LHD as I don't see how it overlaps the clock on mine.

 

[Rolf]

Nope. Mine is RHD. It overlaps, take my word for it.

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[Noxia]

Hmm, any tips on getting Speedo out then? What you say makes sense as it's the right side of the clock I can't get out. Speedo doesn't seem to budge one bit, I removed the curvy bit.

Edit: NVM, all removed with no dramas. Just got to find a man who is handy with a soldering iron now. None of the pins wobble, so not sure what I'm asking someone to do for me

 

[GazMc]

Looks like I've just saved myself £366 then!
I too had problems removing the clock display, but there are other threads on here that advise removing the speedo display, which makes the job easy as. R
Remove the top cover (dome shaped piece of cowel over the speedo display, just lift it up then draw it forward) then pull the speedo forwards until you feel it come free, I didn't bother unplugging it, just put it to one side out of the way. This gives you easy access to the right hand side of the display, mine virtually fell out
Once out, it wasn't immediately obvious what joints had gone, but once I'd spotted one I could see more. Fiddly job with my trusty soldering iron, but I did it, nowt better than saving a large amount of cash eh? Happy days!

 

[andyhawes]

More detail

Having just done this I thought I would add some more detail, as parts of this repair were quite fiddly/difficult - the whole operation took me about 1 hour:

1. you have to remove the plastic cover above the digital speedo display - this pulls up pretty easily and is held on with 3 clips that just pop upwards and forwards

2. then remove the plastic flat cover just in front of the LCD radio display - I found a part of this youtube video really helpful

See the part around 4:42 into this video (it's only the cover part you are interested in, ignore the initial stuff about centre console and the subsequent parts around removing the radio)

3. you will see 2 screws at the bottom of the lcd radio display, remove these

4. next you need to remove the speedo display as this holds the radio display in - be careful not to damage the display but you need to apply quite a bit of force to pull this out forward - again it's retained by clips that pop out, one on either side, and one at the back

5. once the speedo is loose, remove the wires by disconnecting the clip behind it, it had a little push down button that allows this to be released - best if you look thru from the outside of the windscreen, as the cable is quite short so you can't really see it from inside the car

6. now you can start to remove the lcd radio display - it's best to try and get the left side loose first, but it's very tightly held by 2 clips on the left, and 2 on the right - I found that a hand underneath and a trim tool along the top to the left side enabled me to work it loose and pull the left side clips loose and forward, and then moved to the right side to do the same

7. again the wires are held in with a clip and there is a small button to release this clip

8. I re-soldered each of the wires as shown in a previous post, I had to use a tiny solder tip as these are very close together and wanted to ensure the solder didn't make a connection that it should not!

9. re-fitting is reverse of removal, much easier, though some of the clips take a bit of aligning to get them to click in right, especially the lcd radio display they I had to click in the right side, half way first, and then both at once to fully home

10. cross your fingers & test!

Good luck.

 

[NTurner]

Hia I'm having this problem still and I am thinking of having a go at fixing it myself but i have never used or own a soldering iron. Is it difficult to do/would I be able to do it if I order a kit online? Or should I find an autoelectrician etc x thanks

 

[AmberViking]

Happy Bunny!

Just want to say thanks for info on this topic. Bought my Cvic 3 weeks ago and it's been bugging me since day 1. Fixed now with help from this forum.

Kudos to OP and problem solvers

 

[ifti]

Hi

I had this problem in April and opened it to check the pins, all seemed find except the thin layer of covering was flaking off, not sure if it this was causing missing digits, i soldiered a few of them anyway and all seemed fine till last few weeks, it came back so I decided to buy another lcd from eBay, eurosalvage, cost me £60 for a 2010 lcd display. They wanted 70 but I put a offer for £60 and they accepted it. I had another crack at replacing it last week and its a tricky job, if you take the right side off the radio display before the left you get a little stuck, and increase the chance of cracking it..so take left side off first.
All went well anyway, no cracks or anything, thank god
Display seems brighter too.
No headaches for a few years now.
Hope this helps

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