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GUR's 5 door Type R 8th gen (K20Z4 engine swap)

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Discussion starter · #22 ·
SonicH1 said:
Wow! Great build ☺ I think it's something all us 5 doors owners wish we had

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
As you can see, it can be done, you can have it :).
 
#24 · (Edited)
Awesome. How much work went into the K20 swap ? Did it need lots of additional parts or just swapping all the type r parts ?

It's a shame there's no 5 seater 5 door type R, and the new one is a four seater that wouldn't make a good daily.
One day i might seriously consider either a full race R18 conversion or a K20 swap on my 5 door.
 
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Discussion starter · #26 ·
ANOMALY said:
Awesome. How much work went into the K20 swap ? Did it need lots of additional parts or just swapping all the type r parts ?

It's a shame there's no 5 seater 5 door type R, and the new one is a four seater that wouldn't make a good daily.
One day i might seriously consider either a full race R18 conversion or a K20 swap on my 5 door.
Click to expand...
Thanks mate,

Had to make new drills in front chassis arms (don't know the name in english, mechanical language :) ), and new welds for gearbox and engine mounts. For example the Type R has another engine mount in front of engine, which 1.8 doesn't have at all. That involved some work : welds for mount engine pipe, etc. Also, upper engine mount (the left one) has to be on 90 degrees, and is slightly crooked but that's it. It isn't an issue at all, doesn't affect it's functionality.

Other than that, just swaping all the typr r parts (electrical loom, radiators, etc... everything is different from 1.8). It is just a 5 door chassis with all type r parts :), that's why if someone want to do this conversion has to have a complete donor car. Otherwise is complicated and very expensive to buy parts one by one.
 

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Discussion starter · #27 ·
Last week found out new things about Flashpro.

A month ago I took a road pothole which lead to a broken damper. In the same time I noticed that my idle was 900 rpm instead of 750 rpm as it is normal. First I thought that pothole caused a sensor fail and took the car to Honda.
Car had abnormal values :

- ECT Sensor 1 : -40 degrees Celsius / normal should be positive temp
- Fuel Injector cycle : 165,89 ms / normal should be around 2,8 – 3 ms
- Spark Advance : -64 degrees / normal should be 8 degrees
- MAP Sensor : 0 kpa / normal should be around 30 kpa
- MAF Sensor : 422,4 g/s / normal should be 2,2 g/s
- Baro Sensor : 0 kpa / normal should be around 100 kpa
- Etc... many values was so wrong that the car shouldn’t start at all

But that was so weird because the car sounded and driven as it should, beside that 900rpm on idle.
Went to Honda with my laptop and Flashpro and after 2 hours we found out that :

- On Honda tester some values was wrong, on Flashpro was fine
- Honda tester found an update for ECU. Done this with standard map obvious, and all values was back to normal
- Then I re-uploaded standard map but through Hondata... the wrong values reappeared

Conclusions :

- 900 rpm on idle was due to my custom map. That’s how it has been set. Put it on 750 rpm but then I understood why it was set to 900 rpm : throttle response was sensitive than standard and that idle set on 900 rpm helped alot. At the end I get used to throttle response and for now the idle is set to 750 rpm
- Look at ECU as to a HDD. It seems that Hondata can’t write / access some ECU sectors (or maybe doesn’t need them at all) and on Honda tester ECU showed some wrong values... but that’s the way Hondata works

After 2 weeks of worries everything is fine and new lesson learned :).
 

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Discussion starter · #28 ·
Updates : Wavetrac LSD and Tegiwa manifold heat wrapped.

Wavetrac LSD - think is the best mod so far, even better than power mods. I have always been interested more in handling than power. No more understeer, slightly oversteer on the limit. Car is handling so well now, like a kart and more playful than before... oh and a new habit when I get in the car - VSA OFF ! It is something that I dared to do very few times in the past but now I'm so confident in the car that I do this every time. What a joy this diff.
Some weight details :

- standard open diff - 5.0 kg
- Wavetrac - 6,6 kg

Regarding heat wrapping the manifold - I'm not worried about manifold cracks, I've done this more for the lift off buzzy sound that Tegiwa manifold makes (I don't like it at all). Unfortunately the buzzy sound is still there :(. I thought that heat wrapping will cure this, but not.
I still have a feeling that the sound could coming from my custom cat back, intermediate box, because I also have a rattle like a heat shield touching the exhaust and I have this only when under load / accelerating between 2500 - 3000 rpm. I already checked heat shields and everything is fine so far. I will investigate this further.
 

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#29 ·
Very nice mate :thumbsup:

Personally leave VSA on, you shouldn't be triggering it anyway unless you're trying to FWD drift lol The moment you're about to plough into a wall is the moment you wish you left VSA on ;)

I love the diff too, doesn't come into use much on the road but on weekend bashes and track it's invaluable.
 
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Discussion starter · #30 ·
You are right I do this only when trash it... which is quite often after I fitted the diff :). The car is so playful, would be a shame not to use it "properly" :D.

Besides the exhaust rattling now I've got a new problem : front seats. I adapted some CU Accord seats because I wanted the lombar and electric adjustment and final step would be to re-upholstery them, but now I don't know what to do, because I can't sit in them anymore on twisty roads :). I have to decide if I keep them or try to find some FN2 Type R seats... in the end the car is a proper Type R although I have 5 doors.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
In the end I bought Type R seats. I find them very comfortable despite the high position. Other than that maintenance and joyful moments :).

Now I'm looking at my first post with "next plans" and what I haven't done yet are: KW V2 coilover (which I don't think I will do anyway because the standard suspension is fine for my needs) and "... maybe turbo" :)). This last one is still on my mind and who knows... "maybe" in the future >:).

Some pictures from the seaside :).
 

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Discussion starter · #38 ·
Guys, if you already have a 5 door you can buy a Type R and swap everything between cars and then sell what was once a Type R like a Type S petrol or diesel. In this way you can have a 5 door Type R without massive amount of money other than labour and registration taxes. Of course, is not free, but either way is a good option, right ?:)
 
#39 ·
GUR said:
Guys, if you already have a 5 door you can buy a Type R and swap everything between cars and then sell what was once a Type R like a Type S petrol or diesel. In this way you can have a 5 door Type R without massive amount of money other than labour and registration taxes. Of course, is not free, but either way is a good option, right ?:)
Click to expand...
For the hassle it's cheaper just to buy a Type R and fit three seats in the back. FN2s are cheap now.

It's admirable what you have done with yours though.
 
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deeronharan
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